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One of my favourite ways to add a bit of crochet to my seasonal home decor is with a garland. I have patterns for Spring and Autum/Halloween garlands but have yet to create one for Christmas. That is until now! When I sat down to start designing my perfect Christmas garland I had so many ideas for motifs that I could include. Initially, I tried to narrow it down to just two or three different ones but at Christmas we're allowed to indulge and be a bit excessive and over the top aren't we? It's Christmas! As I have quite a few. motifs to include in the pattern and wanted to be able to provide some photo support for each motif, I have split this pattern into two parts. In Part 1 (this blog post) you can find the instructions for the following motifs: Mini Xmas Wreath Holly Stars (small and large) Santa Hat In Part 2 ( available here ) you will find the instructions for these motifs: Snowflake Candy Cane Christmas Tree Xmas bauble If you would like to have the full instructions for all 8 motifs (plus an exclusive 9th motif - gingerbread man!) and instructions for turning them into a garland, all in one place then you can purchase the inexpensive PDF pattern on my website or Etsy . Use code XMASBLOG to receive 20% off ! Whether you want to have one or two of each motif on your garland or Pick 'n' Mix your favourite ones that is completely up to you! I have stuck with traditional Christmas colours of reds and greens as I do love a classic Christmas colourway but you can express your own festive style with whatever colours you choose! The pattern below will show you how to make each of the motifs (Mini Xmas Wreath, Holly, Stars and Santa Hat) individually. Let's get to the pattern ! Before you begin: You will need: Aran/worsted/4 weight cotton yarn or yarn of your choosing 4mm hook or hook 1mm smaller than that suggested for the yarn Scissors Tapestry needle Notes on yarn choice: Here I am using Yarnsmiths Cotton Aran in colours Clover, Christmas Green (darker). Crimson, Claret Red (darker), Mustard Yellow and Cream. Whilst I have used cotton yarn for my motifs you do not have to however, acrylic yarn may not be as sturdy. If you find that your motifs are a little floppy I would suggest sizing down your hook. Using different weight yarns such as DK/light worsted or Super chunky yarn and their corresponding hooks would allow you to alter the size of the motifs to be larger or smaller. Stitch Abbreviations (US Terms) Ch - chain MR - magic ring/magic circle SC - single crochet HDC - half double crochet DC - double crochet 2TOG - two stitches worked together to decrease Sl st - slip stitch St/s - stitch/es RS - right side WS - wrong side Pattern Notes: Any special stitches required will be listed at the start of the pattern for the motif on which they are used. Starting chains do not count as a stitch unless specified. The patterns below are written with directions for the colours I have used, you can of course substitue the colours for whatever you would like to use. The Patterns: Mini Xmas Wreath Using Christmas Green and a 4mm hook, ch15 and sl st to the first chain to create a circle. Be careful not to twist the chain. Round 1 (RS): Work 20 HDC over the chain. Sl st to the first HDC to join. Do not chain, instead pull your loop up to the height of a HDC. (20 sts) Round 2 (WS): *HDC into the first st, 2HDC into the next stitch* Repeat this around, sl st to first HDC to join. (30 sts) Fasten off and weave in your ends. Adding the bow: Take a long piece of yarn in Crimson (red) and thread it onto a tapestry needle. Insert the needle through the space between the stitches (see photo) from the front leaving a long tail. Weave your needle in and out of the stitches all the way around until you meet the beginning again. Ensure that you pull your yarn back through to the front. Tie a little bow, turning your wreath around if you would like the bow at the bottom like I have, otherwise you can keep it at the top. Trim off the ends. Note: this is the fiddliest part of the pattern! Tie a large bow and then pull the two tails to decrease the size of the loops, you can then trim off the excess tails. Holly Leaves & Berries Special stitches: Picot - ch3, sl st into the 3rd ch from the hook. Bobble stitch (DC5TOG) - YO and insert your hook into the magic ring, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook). YO and pull through two loops (2 loops on hook). *YO and insert hook into magic ring, pull up a loop. YO and pull through two loops* Repeat until you have 6 loops on your hook. YO and pull through all loops. Holly leaves: Make 2 Using Christmas Green and a 4mm hook, ch10 Round 1: SC into the 2nd chain from your hook. Then work the following; 2 HDC, DC, 2DC into the next st, DC, 2 HDC and 3 SC into the final st. (12 sts so far) This will begin to turn your work slightly, let it as you will now work back along the underside of chain. 2 HDC, DC, 2DC into the next st (this will be the same st as the 2DC from the previous row), DC, 2 HDC, and SC in the last ch. Sl st into the first SC., This brings you back around to your first side. Round 2: Skip the stitch into which you sl stitched and work a SC inot the next st. Picot st from that SC. SC in the next st and sl st into the following st. (first point created). * (SC, picot) into the next st, followed by a SC and a sl st * repeat from *to * 4 more times. To create your final point, (SC, picot), SC and then sl st into the final st. You will have a total of 7 picot points. Fasten off. Note: Before you fasten off your second leaf, place it over the top of your first one at an andle (see photo) and sl st through the first leaf to join the two together and then fasten off. Berries: Using Crimson and a 4mm hook, create a magic ring. Ch1 and into the magic ring, work a *bobble st, ch1* repeat two more times, pulling the tail of the magic ring to tighten before you work your third and final bobble stitch. Pull tail to full close magic ring and sl st to first bobble st to join. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for joining to the leaves. Joining together: Insert the tail of the berries through the top of the leaves where they are joined together. Move the pieces about slightly until they are how you would like them to look and then sew the berries onto the leaves. Weave in any ends. Stars Using your chosen colour and a 4mm hook, make a magic ring. Small Star Into the MR work 10 HDC. Sl st to first st to join. *Ch 4, SC in 2nd chain from the hook. HDC into next ch, DC into last ch. Skip one st, sl st to next HDC along.* Repeat 4 more times to complete the star. Fasten off and weave in your ends. Large Star Into a MR work 15 DC. Sl st to first st to join. *Ch 5, SC in 2nd chain from the hook. HDC into next ch, DC into next ch, TR into final ch. Skip one st, sl st to next DC along.* Repeat 4 more times to complete the star. Fasten off and weave in your ends. {Photos below shows large star} Santa Hat Using Claret Red and a 4mm hook, ch3. Hat Row 1: HDC into the 2nd chain from the hook and into the final chain. Ch1 and turn. (2 sts) Row 2: 2HDC into each of the two sts. Ch1 and turn. (4 sts) Row 3: HDC into each st along, ch1 and turn. (4 sts) Row 4: 2HDC into the first st, HDC in each st until one st remaining, 2HDC into the final st. (6 sts) Row 5: HDC into each st along, ch1 and turn. (6 sts) Rows 6 -7: Repeat rows 4 and 5. (8 sts) Row 8: Repeat row 4 (10 sts) Fasten off Claret Red and attach Cream. Row 9: SC into each st along. Ch 1 and turn. (10 sts) Row 10: *DC into the first st, SC into the next st* repeat along. (10 sts) Turn your work so that the textured (bumpy) side of the final row is facing you. This is the RS of your hat. Fasten off Cream. Pompom Using Cream, make a magic ring. Into the MR, *DC, SC* 5 times. Sl st to first st to join. (10 sts) Turn your work so that the textured (bumpy) side is facing you. This is the RS of your pompom. Fasten off leaving a long tail to sew onto hat. Sew the pompom onto the tip of the hat (or use a hot glue gun!) ensuring that the RS of each are facing the same way. Then weave in any ends. That's the first 4 motifs complete! be sure to check back to the blog next week for the remaining 4 motifs and how to join your motifs together! Coming next week: Snowflake Candy Cane Christmas Tree Bauble I'd love to see your work so please do tag me in your posts on social media @Brambles.and.Hart and use the hashtags #BHFreePatternMakes   #BramblesandHart If you are not already following me on social media then what are you doing?! I'd love to see you over on Instagram @Brambles.and.Hart , you can also follow me on TikTok (although I'm not particularly active there currently) and do subscribe to my YouTube Channel which will see a little revival very soon! If you would like to support me further and help me to keep creating free patterns and tutorials to share with you then do consider buying me a coffee on Ko-fi ! Happy crocheting! Shelley ♡

Are you looking for an eye-catching Christmas Jumper to wear this festive season? Then I've got you covered! The Candy Cane Lane Sweater is made using chunky/bulky/5 weight yarn so it works up nice and quick. In a couple of evenings you can have this sweater finished ready to dazzle your friends and family at your work Christmas party or festive family get-together! Add Candy Canes to just the front or to the back too, it's completely your choice. Fancy adding something else alongside the Candy Canes? Then check out the Christmas Pick 'n' Mix Garland pattern which features 7 other festive motifs which you can use as appliques on your sweater. The Candy Cane Lane Sweater was previously published in issue 101 of Crochet Now magazine. Some slight adjustments have been made to the pattern here but overall it is the same. Now let's get to the pattern ! Before you begin: You will need: Crochet hooks: 6.5mm and 7mm for the sweater (or size needed to obtain gauge) 4mm hook for the candy cane appliques Chunky/Bulky/5 weight yarn - See note below Aran/Worsted/4 weight yarn in white and red for the candy canes Tapestry needle Scissors Measuring tape Stitch markers Yarn note: For my sweater I used Stylecraft Special Chunky in Aspen (main colour) and Fondant (contrast colour). Whilst this is a chunky/bulky/5 weight yarn it is definitely on the lighter side so be sure to do a gauge swatch with your chosen yarn before you begin. Some thicker aran/worsted weight yarns may be appropriate substitutions. Stitch Abbreviations (US Terms) Ch - chain Sl st - slip stitch SC - single crochet HDC - half double crochet DC - double crochet BLO - in the back loop only HDC2TOG - half double crochet 2 together (decrease) Yardage For the jumper you will need the following number of 100g balls per colour. This is based off of the Stylecraft Special Chunky used for the sample sweater. Main Colour (5, 6, 7, 7, 8, 8, 9, 10, 10) balls Contrast Colour (2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 3, 3, 3, 3) balls For all sizes you will also need 1x 100g of aran weight yarn in white and some red yarn for adding on the stripes to the candy canes. Gauge Using chunky yarn and a 7mm hook. 10 HDC stitches x 9 rows = 10cm x 10cm (4" x 4") Measurements All measurements are given in cms. Finished Chest is measured from underarm to underarm with garment laid flat. Length is measured from neckline to bottom of jumper. Sleeves are measured from underarm to the end of the cuff. The jumper is designed with a positive ease of 13-19cm around the chest. In CM To Fit Chest (circumference) Finished Chest Length Sleeve X-Small 71-76 45 58 41.5 Small 81-86 50 58 42.5 Medium 91-97 55 60 42.5 Large 101-107 60 60 44.5 X Large 111-117 65 62 44.5 2X Large 122-127 70 62 44.5 3X Large 132-137 75 64 46 4X Large 142-147 80 65 48 5X Large 152-158 85 66 48 Pattern Notes: The Candy Cane Lane Sweater is made up of 4 pieces; the front panel, back panel and two sleeves. The ribbing and neckband are worked directly onto the jumper once all seaming has been completed. The sleeves are worked independently and then sewn onto the main body, therefore if you would like to follow the sleeve pattern for a different size this is easy to do. Ch1 does not count as a stitch. The stitch counts for each size will be given as follows: ( XS, S , M , L , XL , 2X , 3X , 4X , 5X sts) If separate instructions are required for a specific size this will be made clear. Where only one stitch count is given this means that it is the same for every size. The length of the sweater is easily adjustable by repeating more or less of the HDC rows before the neck shaping. The Pattern: Back Panel Ch 46 , 51 , 56 , 61 , 66 , 71 , 76 , 81 , 86 Row 1 (RS): Starting in the 2nd ch from hook, HDC in each ch across. Ch1 and turn. ( 45 , 50 , 55 , 60 , 65 , 70 , 75 , 80 , 85 sts) Row 2 (WS): HDC in each st across. Ch1 and turn. ( 45 , 50 , 55 , 60 , 65 , 70 , 75 , 80 , 85 sts) Row 3 onwards: Repeat row 2 until you have 45 , 45 , 47 , 47 , 49 , 49 , 51 , 53 , 53 rows altogether. Fasten off. Note: If you wish to adjust the length of your sweater then you can do so by working more or less HDC rows. Just be sure to keep a note of how many rows you did so that you can match it for the front panel. I recommend working an odd number of rows so the RS/WS remains the same as in the pattern. Continue to Front Panel. Front Panel Work same as for back panel until you have 42 , 42 , 44 , 44 , 46 , 46 , 48 , 50 , 50 rows Note: If you modified your row count for the back panel then you will need to work HDC rows until you reach 3 less than your desired number. E.g. desired number of rows to match back panel 43, work to row 40. Neck Shaping (right hand side with sweater facing you) Row 1: HDC in the first 14 , 16 , 18 , 20 , 22 , 24 , 26 , 28 , 30 sts. HDC2TOG across the next 2 sts. Ch1 and turn. ( 15 , 17 , 19 , 21 , 23 , 25 , 27 , 29 , 31 sts) Row 2: HDC2TOG across the first 2 sts. HDC in each st across. Ch1 and turn. ( 14 , 16 , 18 , 20 , 22 , 24 , 26 , 28 , 30 sts) Row 3: HDC in the first 13 , 15 , 17 , 19 , 21 , 23 , 25 , 27 , 29 HDC. HDC2 TOG across the last 2 sts. ( 13 , 15 , 17 , 19 , 21 , 23 , 25 , 27 , 29 sts) Your total row count should be 45 , 45 , 47 , 47 , 49 , 49 , 51 , 53 , 53   the same as for the back panel. Fasten off leaving a 35cm tail for seaming. Neck Shaping (left hand side with sweater facing you) With RS facing, count 16 , 18 , 20 , 22 , 24 , 26 , 28 , 30 , 32 sts from the left and attach your yarn. Ch1 ready to begin the first row. Row 1: HDC2TOG across the first 2 sts. HDC in the next 14 , 16 , 18 , 20 , 22 , 24 , 26 , 28 , 30 sts.  Ch1 and turn. ( 15 , 17 , 19 , 21 , 23 , 25 , 27 , 29 , 31 sts) Row 2: HDC across, HDC2TOG across the last 2 sts. Ch1 and turn. ( 14 , 16 , 18 , 20 , 22 , 24 , 26 , 28 , 30 sts) Row 3: HDC2TOG, HDC in eah st across. ( 13 , 15 , 17 , 19 , 21 , 23 , 25 , 27 , 29 sts) Fasten off leaving a 35cm tail for seaming. Sleeves (make 2) Cuffs: Using a 6.5mm hook and your contrast colour . Row 1: Ch 10. Starting in the 2nd ch from hook, sc in each st across. Ch1 and turn. (9 sts). Row 2: SCBLO in each st across. Ch1 and turn. (9sts). Row 3 onwards: Repeat row 2 until you have 18 , 18 , 20 , 22 , 24 , 26 , 28 , 30 , 32 rows. Join the ribbing by working a sl st in the BLO of the last row sts and the underside of the foundation chain. Turn your work so that you can work around the top edge of the cuff. HDC into the side of each row of ribbing. Sl st to join, Fasten off contrast colour . ( 18 , 18 , 20 , 22 , 24 , 26 , 28 , 30 , 32 sts) You are now going to be working in joined rounds. Continue to Sleeve. Sleeve Join main colour and switch to a 7mm hook. Round 1 (RS): HDC into the first st, 2HDC into the next st repeat from to around. Sl st to join, ch1 and turn. ( 27 , 27 , 30 , 33 , 36 , 39 , 42 , 45 , 48 sts) Rounds 2-6: HDC into each st around. Sl st to join, ch 1 and turn. ( 27 , 27 , 30 , 33 , 36 , 39 , 42 , 45 , 48 sts) Round 7 (RS) INC: 2HDC into the first st, HDC around, 2HDC into the last st. Sl st to join, ch1 and turn. ( 29 , 29 , 32 , 35 , 38 , 41 , 44 , 47 , 50 sts) Rounds 8-12: HDC into each st around. Sl st to join, ch1 and turn. ( 29 , 29 , 32 , 35 , 38 , 41 , 44 , 47 , 50 sts) Round 13 (RS) INC: 2HDC into the first st. HDC around, 2HDC into the last st. Sl st to join, ch1 and turn. ( 31 , 31 , 34 , 37 , 40 , 43 , 46 , 49 , 52 sts) Last INC round for size XS Rounds 14-18: HDC into each st around. Sl tst to join, ch1 and turn. ( 31 , 31 , 34 , 37 , 40 , 43 , 46 , 49 , 52 sts) XS Round 19: HDC into each st around. Sl st to join. ch1 and turn. ( 31 sts) Continue working rounds of HDC until you have 31 rounds in total. Fasten off leaving a 50cm tail. All other sizes Round 19 (RS) INC: 2HDC into the first st, HDC around, 2HDC into the last st. Sl st to join, ch1 and turn. ( 33 , 36 , 39 , 42 , 45 , 48 , 51 , 54 sts) Rounds 20-24: HDC into each st around. Sl st to join, ch1 and turn. ( 33 , 36 , 39 , 42 , 45 , 48 , 51 , 54 sts) Round 25 (RS) INC: 2HDC into the first st, HDC around, 2HDC into the last st. Sl st to join, ch1 and turn. ( 35 , 38 , 41 , 44 , 47 , 50 , 53 , 56 sts) Last INC round for S , M , L , XL Rounds 26 - 31: HDC in each st around. Sl st to join, ch1 and turn. ( 35 , 38 , 41 , 44 , 47 , 50 , 53 , 56 sts) Size S fasten off leaving a 55cm tail. Sizes M , L XL work rounds of HDC until you have a total of 33 , 33 , 34 rounds. Fasten off leaving a 55cm tail. 2X , 3X , 4X , 5X continue Round 32 (RS) INC): 2HDC into the first st, HDC around, 2HDC into the last st. Sl st to join, ch1 and turn. ( 49 , 52 , 55 , 58 sts) (This is an optional increase round, you can replace with a standard HDC round if you wish) Round 33 onwards: HDC in each st around. Sl st to join, ch1 and turn. ( 49 , 52 , 55 , 58 sts) Repeat until you have a total of 35 , 35 , 36 , 36 rounds. Fasten off leaving a 65cm tail. Continue to seaming. Seaming Notes before you begin: The Right Sides of your work will always be facing each other. If you haven’t already, it’s a good idea to mark the RS of both your panels with a stitch marker. I recommend whip stitching as the seaming method but please feel free to do whatever you are most confident with if you usually use a different method. Before you begin seaming your panels together, lay your front panel down flat and line up your sleeves so that you can mark where your arm holes need to begin (the end tail of each sleeve should be orientated to the underside centre so that it will be inline with the seam). Main Body Lay your front and back panels side by side, WS facing you, with the shoulders lined up. If you are leaving a Thread your tapestry needle with a long tail, approximately 80-100cm (rather too much than not enough) and work the needle through the very edge of both panels from right to left, tying a knot to secure. You will then whip stitch your two panels together until just before the stitch marker denoting where your armhole will begin. Do not fasten off your yarn just yet incase you need to adjust your seam. Flip your work over and bring the two unjoined edges together, the WS of each panel should now be facing you, repeat the instructions for seaming on this side also. Shoulders Using the long tails left from the neck shaping, whip stitch your along the length of your shoulders. Fasten off. Sleeves With the WS of your jumper facing you, insert your first sleeve through the armhole and line up the sleeve to the armhole. It should fit neatly without the need to stretch out the sleeve or the armhole too much. If your side seam needs increasing or pulling back adjust as needed. Using the long tail left on sleeve, whip stitch around the armhole and the opening of your sleeve. You want to ensure that you work through each stitch of the sleeve. Fasten off and repeat for the second sleeve. Turn your jumper the right way out and double check that the RS of both panels and your sleeves are now facing you. Continue to Ribbing. Finishing Touches Both the ribbing and the neckband will be worked in your contrast colour and will use a 6.5mm hook. Ribbing - Hem With the RS of your sweater facing you, attach your contrast colour to the centre of one of the side seams. Ch1 and SC in each st around the bottom of your jumper. Sl st to join and ch 14 Row 1: Starting in the 2nd ch from hook, sc in each st across. Ch1 and turn. Sl st into the first st and again into the second st along. Ch1 and turn. (13 sts) Row 2: SCBLO in each st across of your previous row. Ch1 and turn. (13 sts). Row 3: SCBLO into each st across. Sl st into the next 2 sts across. Ch1 and turn. (13 sts) Repeat rows 2 and 3 all around the bottom hem of the sweater then join the ribbing by working a sl st in the BLO of the last row sts and the underside of the foundation chain. Fasten off. Neckband Join your yarn to the centre stitch of your back panel and ch1. SC in each st around, working 2SCTOG across the corners where the neck shaping joins the front panel. Sl st to join and Ch 20 . Row1: Starting in the 2nd ch from hook, sc in each st across. Ch1 and turn. Sl st into the first st and again into the second st along. Ch1 and turn. (19 sts) Row 2: SCBLO in each st across of your previous row. Ch1 and turn. (19 sts). Row 3: SCBLO into each st across. Sl st into the next 2 sts across. Ch1 and turn. (19 sts) Repeat rows 2 and 3 around your neckband until you are back to your first row. Join the ribbing by working a sl st in the BLO of the last row sts and the underside of the foundation chain. Note: If you would like a single layer neckband or a much smaller neckband then simply alter the number of chains you do and work accordingly. Fold over your neckband and weave in all of your ends - your sweater is complete! Adding the Appliques The amount of candy canes (or other motifs) that you choose to add to your sweater is up to you. For the sample sweater I made 6 'right curve' candy canes and 3 'left curve' candy canes and only added them to the front of the sweater. If you want to add them all over then you can make more. To attach the appliques, either sew them on using the same colour yarn or you can use a hot glue gun to attach them (my preferred method but I know it's nopt for everyone!) Candy Canes Right Curve DC into the 3 rd  ch from the hook and into the next 11 sts. 3DC into the next st. Work 2TR into each of the next 6 sts. Place a DC into the final st. Ch2 and sl st into the final chain. Fasten off white. Left Curve DC into the 3 rd  chain from the hook. Work 2TR into each of the next 6 sts. 3DC into the next st. DC into the remaining 12 sts. Ch2 and sl st to the final chain. Fasten off white. Adding stripes Thread Crimson yarn through a tapestry needle. Starting at the bottom, insert needle from the back and insert through a stitch diagonally on the opposite side. To try and keep the stripes evenly spaced, work the red yarn through every other stitch on the inside of the candy cane and the 2 nd  or 3 rd  st of the outside. Congratulations, you have completed your Candy Cane Lane Sweater and are ready to dazzle this festive season! I really hope that you enjoyed making this free pattern. I'd love to see your work so please do tag me in your posts on social media @Brambles.and.Hart and use the hashtags #BHFreePatternMakes   #BramblesandHart If you are not already following me on social media then what are you doing?! I'd love to see you over on Instagram @Brambles.and.Hart , you can also follow me on TikTok (although I'm not particularly active there currently) and do subscribe to my YouTube Channel which will see a little revival in the new year! Happy crocheting! Shelley ♡

Here is part 2 of the Christmas Pick 'n' Mix Garland! If you missed Part 1 you can find that here . In Part 1 you can find the instructions for the following motifs: Mini Xmas Wreath Holly Stars (small and large) Santa Hat In Part 2 (this blog post) you will find the instructions for these motifs: Candy Cane Snowflake Christmas Tree Xmas bauble If you would like to have the full instructions for all 8 motifs (plus an exclusive 9th motif - gingerbread man!) and instructions for turning them into a garland, all in one place then you can purchase the inexpensive PDF pattern on my website or Etsy . Use code XMASBLOG to receive 20% off ! Whether you want to have one or two of each motif on your garland or Pick 'n' Mix your favourite ones that is completely up to you! I have stuck with traditional Christmas colours of reds and greens as I do love a classic Christmas colourway but you can express your own festive style with whatever colours you choose! The pattern below will show you how to make each of the motifs (Candy Cane, Snowflake, Chritmas Tree and Xmas Bauble) individually plus how to join your motifs together to form your garland. (Click here if you're ready to jump to that part!) Let's get to the pattern ! Before you begin: You will need: Aran/worsted/4 weight cotton yarn or yarn of your choosing 3.5mm and 4mm hook (or hook 1mm smaller than that suggested for the yarn) Scissors Tapestry needle Notes on yarn choice: Here I am using Yarnsmiths Cotton Aran in colours Clover, Christmas Green (darker). Crimson, Claret Red (darker), Mustard Yellow and White. Whilst I have used cotton yarn for my motifs you do not have to however, acrylic yarn may not be as sturdy. If you find that your motifs are a little floppy I would suggest sizing down your hook. Using different weight yarns such as DK/light worsted or Super chunky yarn and their corresponding hooks would allow you to alter the size of the motifs to be larger or smaller. Stitch Abbreviations (US Terms) Ch - chain MR - magic ring/magic circle SC - single crochet HDC - half double crochet DC - double crochet 2TOG - two stitches worked together to decrease Sl st - slip stitch St/s - stitch/es RS - right side WS - wrong side Pattern Notes: Any special stitches required will be listed at the start of the pattern for the motif on which they are used. Starting chains do not count as a stitch unless specified. The patterns below are written with directions for the colours I have used, you can of course substitue the colours for whatever you would like to use. The Patterns: Candy Cane Using White and a 3.5mm hook, ch22 You can make two different Candy Canes, one where the curve goes to the left and one to the right. Make a few of each or just the one you prefer! Right Curve DC into the 3 rd ch from the hook and into the next 11 sts. 3DC into the next st. Work 2TR into each of the next 6 sts. Place a DC into the final st. Ch2 and sl st into the final chain. Fasten off white. Left Curve DC into the 3 rd chain from the hook. Work 2TR into each of the next 6 sts. 3DC into the next st. DC into the remaining 12 sts. Ch2 and sl st to the final chain. Fasten off white. Adding stripes Thread Crimson yarn through a tapestry needle. Starting at the bottom, insert needle from the back and insert through a stitch diagonally on the opposite side. To try and keep the stripes evenly spaced, work the red yarn through every other stitch on the inside of the candy cane and the 2 nd or 3 rd st of the outside. Photo shows Right Curve candy cane Snowflake Using White and a 4mm hook, make a magic ring Round 1; Into the MR, work [DC, ch2] 6 times. Sl st to first DC to join. (6 DC and 6 ch spaces) Round 2: *Ch6, sl st into 2 nd st and next st along. Ch2 and DC into final ch. Sl st to next DC along (from round 1) to join*. (First point complete) Repeat from * to* five more times. Sl st to top of first DC from the first round (where point one began) to join. You will have 6 points in total. Fasten off and weave in your ends. Christmas Tree Using Christmas Green and a 4mm hook, ch3 Tree Row 1; Into the 3rd chain from the hook, work 2 HDC. Ch1 and turn. (2 sts) Row 2: 2HDC into each st along. Ch1 and turn. (4 sts) Row 3: HDC into each st along. Ch1 and turn. (4 sts) Row 4: 2HDC into first st, HDC along until 1 st remains, 2HDC into final st. Ch1 and turn. (6 sts) Rows 5 - 8: Repeat rows 3-4 twice. (10 sts) Row 9: SC into each st along. (10 sts) Fasten off green. Stump Attach brown yarn to the 4 th st along. Row 1: Ch1 and HDC into same st and next 2sts along. Ch and turn. Row 2: HDC into each st along. Fasten off brown. Star Picot - ch3, sl st into 3rd chain from hook Using Mustard Yellow and a 4mm hook, make a magic ring Into the magic ring *SC, picot* 5 times. Sl st to first SC to join. Fasten off yellow leaving long tail to sew star to tree. Attach star to top of the tree and then weave in all of your ends. Xmas Bauble Using Crimson and a 4mm hook, make a magic ring Round 1: Into the MR, work 11 HDC. Sl st to first HDC to join. (11 sts) Round 2: Ch1, 2HDC into each st around. Sl st to first HDC to join. (22 sts) Round 3: Ch1, *HDC into first st, 2HDC into next st* repeat around. Sl st to first HDC to join. (33 sts) Fasten off red. Hanging Attach Mustard Yellow to one HDC and ch1. Row 1: SC into same st and next 2 sts along. Ch1 and turn. (3 sts) Row 2: SC into each st along. Turn. (3 sts) Ch4 and sl st to last SC along to join. Fasten off yellow and weave in all ends. Joining the Garland These instructions show how to simply join your motifs together to create a garland. You can make your garland as long or as short as you like depending on where you plan to hang your garland and of course how many motifs you plan to add. When you are deciding on the order in which to have the motifs on your garland remember that when you join them you will be doing so from right to left. Taking your chosen yarn and a 4mm hook, ch15. This will be the starting chain of your garland, you can of curse make this longer or shorter if you wish. 2. Take your first motif and sl st to the top of the motif then ch17. This will be the space between your motif. You may wish to alter this to accommodate larger or smaller motifs. For example, the Holly Leaves will take up more space than the small star. 3. For every new motif you add, sl st to the top and then ch17 (or your chosen amount) between them. After attaching your final motif, ch15 or the same amount as you did at the start and fasten off. 4. You can either weave in the two ends or simple trim them short. Gingerbread man pattern available in the PDF. And there you have your completed Christmas Pick 'n' Mix Garland! 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