Search Results

I am a big reader, I always have at least one book, normally 2 or 3, on the go at any one time. Usually, I read books on my Kindle. It's so light to hold, I can read in bed at night without needing a light on and it's super convenient for taking with me when I leave the house however over the last few months I have been picking up more and more physical books. I love this for me as I have so many physical books on my bookcases that are just begging to be read. The only problem is that whenever I want to take my book out and about with me it ends up getting so beat up in my bag. I knew that I needed to make a special sleeve for it just like I did for my Kindle. I love my Daisy Delight Kindle Sleeve (You can find a the free pattern here) but I knew for this that I wanted to try something that was super easy but still looks really cute and could accomodate books of varying thicknesses. Cue the super simple Granny Square Book Sleeve! The beauty of using a granny square is that you can use any yarn and hook combo that you choose and simply work the square until it is large enough to accomodate your desired reading material. I made mine to fit standard UK paperbacks as this is what I tend to read most but you can absolutely make it larger to keep your favourite hardbacks cosy, or even make a slightly smaller version to hold a Kindle. Whilst you can use any yarn you like along with a corresponsing crochet hook, I will be referring to the yarn, hook and measurements releveant to the book sleeve that I made. Simply use this as guidance when making your own. Let's get to the pattern! Before you begin: You will need: 1 ball of Yarnsmiths Bizarre DK - I used approximately 52g per book sleeve in shades Splendiferous (brights) and Shennanigans (neutrals) A 4mm crochet hook Scissors Tapestry needle Button or toggle Try to have a book to hand for checking the sizing! Stitch Abbreviations (US Terms) SC - single crochet DC - double crochet Cluster - granny stitch/ 3DC worked into the same space Sp - space Sl st - slip stitch Ch - chain Gauge: Gauge is not especially important for this pattern as you will work to the measurement of your book or device using whichever yarn you choose. However, for reference after completing 3 rounds of my granny square it measured 7cm in width. Pattern Notes: Ch3 at the start of a round does count as a stitch unless stated otherwise. Round 1 will be the right side (RS) of your work. You will turn your work at the end of each round. I did not change colour at all for my book sleeve but you could opt to change colour every round, have a contrast border etc whatever is most appealing to you. I am assuming some knowledge of crocheting a granny square, if you would like a more indepth tutorial for this you can find one here. The Pattern: Making the Granny Square Make a magic circle (or you can chain 4 and sl st to join and create a circle) Round 1 (RS): Into the magic circle, ch2 (counts as a stitch here and throughout). Work 2 DC and ch1. Then work *3DC, ch1* repeating from *to* 2 more times. Sl st to top of ch2 to join. Ch2 and turn. Note: At the end of this round you will have 4 clusters of 3DC and 4 ch1 spaces. The ch1 spaces are your corner spaces. Round 2 (WS): Work 2 DC into the chain space at the base of the ch2. [3DC, ch1, 3DC] into each of the next 3 ch1 corner spaces. 3DC into the final corner space (where you worked your initial ch2, 2DC) and ch1. Sl st to top of ch2 to join. Ch2 and turn. Round 3 (RS): Ch2 and work 2 DC into the chain space at the base of the ch2. *3DC into the space between clusters from previous round and work [3DC, ch1, 3DC] into the corner space* Repeat from* to* 2 more times. 3DC into the space between the clusters from the previous round. 3DC into the final corner space and ch1. Sl st to top of ch2 to join. Ch2 and turn. Repeat round 3 until you have a total of 16 rounds, or however many rounds are required for you to be able to fold three corners together to meet across your book (see photo). For my granny square to snuggly fit a standard paperback is measured approximately 41cm across diagonally from corner to corner. Fasten off leaving a tail of about 30cm. Joining Once your granny square is the appropriate size for your chosen book or device, you will need to seam the three flaps together to join and create. the envelope style we are after (see photo). The seam will be done with the RS of your work facing you. Note: As we have been turning our work with each round there is technically no right or wrong side to our granny square however I always count round 1 as the RS. I had 16 rounds for my granny square, meaning that I ended on a WS round and need to turn my work before beginning the seams. Try to orientate your granny square so that one of your seams can be done with the tail you left when fastening off - it saves an extra end to weave in! I simply seamed the two edges together by working through both loops of the stitch on one side and the corresponding stitch on the other. If you have a preferred seaming method then feel free to use that here. You will need to attach yarn to seam along the second join, work this in the same direction as seam one to ensure a neat finish. Fasten off. Border I like to add a simple SC border around the opening of the book sleeve to neaten the edges and add a little bit of extra strength. With the RS facing you, attach your yarn to the centre point of the sleeve opening on what will be the inside (where you just completed the joins). SC into each st around the opening. When you reach the ch1 corner space, work 2SC into the ch-sp and then continue around. Sl st to first SC to join and fasten off. Fastening Sew on your chosen button or toggle to the 'inside" of your book sleeve, ensuring that it is in a position where it can be reached by the top flap of your sleeve. We have not intentionally created a buttonhole for our sleeve as the fastening will go through the ch1-sp of the remaining corner. It's a good idea to check that your chosen fastening will fit before you sew it on! Weave in all of your ends and your Granny Square Book Sleeve is complete! I really hope that you enjoyed making your very own Granny Square Book Sleeve! I think these would make great gifts for the book lovers in your life or even as quick makes for selling at markets or craft fayres! I'm always happy for you to sell items made with any of my patterns, I just ask that you direct people to the pattern should they ask ☺️ I'd love to see your versions so please do tag me in your posts on social media @Brambles.and.Hart and use the hashtags #BHFreePatternMakes #BramblesandHart If you are not already following me on social media then what are you doing?! I'd love to see you over on Instagram @Brambles.and.Hart, and do subscribe to my YouTube Channel which is currently undergoing a little revival! If you would like to support me further and help me to keep creating free patterns and tutorials to share with you then do consider buying me a coffee on Ko-fi! Happy crocheting! Shelley ♡

The Rainbow Drops blanket is perhaps the softest, snuggliest blanket I have ever made! I designed this blanket using Yarnsmiths Chenille DK which is a new yarn to the Yarnsmiths range and available exclusively at Wool Warehouse (not an affiliate link) You can read my honest review of the yarn here . For this blanket pattern I selected 9 stunning pastel shades of the Chenille DK and paired them together in a colourblock style to create a beautifully eye-catching pastel rainbow blanket. Finished with a clean and simple border, this blanket is the sweetest! At time of publication (April 2026) Chenille DK is currently on offer for £1.50 per 50g ball (usually £2.50) so it's pretty sweet on the price too. A large baby blanket for less than £15 (still only £22.50 at full price!) This is a beginner friendly pattern, although if you are not familiar crocheting with chenille yarn I would suggest having a little practice first. It would also be a great mindfulness crochet project for a more experienced crocheter. I also think that the Rainbow Drops Blanket would make such a wonderful new baby gift! Of course you can switch up the colours to work with a colour scheme of your choice but I am a little in love with this one even if it's not my usual colour palette. Now let's get to the pattern ! Before you begin: You will need: 1 ball of Yarnsmiths Chenille DK in each of the following shades: Blush, Peach, Lemon Yellow, Light Pink, Pale Lilac, Sky Blue, Duck Egg, Light Sage and Cream. A 5mm crochet hook Scissors Tapestry needle Optional - lighter or match to melt the end of the chenille yarn before weaving in your ends. Yarn Notes: The yarn amounts provided for this pattern are based on making a blanket that has a finished measurement of 88cm x 85cm/ 34.5" x 33.5". If you wish to make alterations to the size of the blanket then you may need more or less yarn. Also be sure to check your gauge as a different tension could also result in you requiring more or less yarn. I have used 8 different shades to give me 8 different colour blocks. You could use 4 colours and repeat them twice, or add in more shades for more colour blocks. Stitch Abbreviations (US Terms) SC - single crochet HDC - half double crochet DC - double crochet Cluster - granny stitch/ 3DC worked into the same space Sp - space Sl st - slip stitch Ch - chain Gauge: 4.5 Clusters x 9 rows = 10 x 10 cm/4" x 4" Pattern Notes: Ch2 at the start of a row does count as a stitch unless stated otherwise. You will be working in rows, turning your work at the end of each row. For the border you will work in the round. You will only change colour at the end of a row. To do so, fasten off your working yarn leaving a long tail for weaving in. Turn your work to begin the next row, attach your new colour to the first stitch and ch2. To alter the width of your blanket you will need a starting chain that is a multiple of 3. The Pattern: Blanket Using Blush and a 5mm hook, chain 108 Note: If you find it difficult working into the chain you can use a larger hook then switch to the 5mm for row 1 onwards. Row 1 (RS): DC into the 3rd chain from then hook (the ch2 counts as a stitch here so you now have 2 sts - the ch2 and the DC). *Skip 2 chains, 3DC into the next st*. Repeat from * to * until you have 3 chains remaining. Skip 2 chains and work 2DC into the final chain. Ch2 and turn. You should have 34 clusters (3DC) and 2 2DCs (one at either end). Row 2 (WS): Work 3 DC into the space between the 2DC and first cluster of the previous row. 3DC into each space along until you reach the end of the row. DC into the top of the ch2. Ch2 and turn. Row 3 (RS): DC into the st at the base of the ch2. Work 3DC into the space between each cluster along. Work 2 DC into the top of the ch2. Ch2 and turn. Rows 4 - 9: Repeat rows 2 and 3 alternately. Fasten off Blush at the end of Row 9 and join Peach. Rows 10 - 18: Repeat rows 2 and 3 alternately, ending with a repeat of row 2. Fasten off Peach at the end of Row 18. You will continue on in the pattern, repeating rows 2 and 3 alternately and changing colour every 9 rows. Your row count and colour order will be as follows: Rows 19 - 27: Lemon Yellow Rows 28 - 26: Light Pink Rows 37 - 45: Pale Lilac Rows 46 - 54: Sky Blue Rows 55 - 63: Duck Egg Rows 64 - 72: Light Sage Fasten off Light Sage and continue on to the border. Border Using a 5mm hook. With the RS facing you, attach Cream to a space between clusters along the bottom edge of your blanket. Round 1: Ch2 and work 2DC into the same space. Work 3DC into each space along until you reach the corner. You will be working over your starting chain. When you reach the corner, work (3DC, ch2, 3DC) all into the same space. This will mean working over the 2DC at the end of the row. When working along the edge of the blanket, work 3DC into every other row. These will be the rows that started/ended with a single DC. You will crochet over the post of the stitch. At the corner, work (3DC, ch2, 3DC) and then work 3DC into the space between each cluster along. Repeat this around your blanket until you reach where you began. Sl st to top of ch2 to join. Ch1 and do not turn. Round 2: HDC into each stitch around, working 3HDC into each corner ch-sp. Sl st to first HDC to join. Ch1 and do not turn. Round 3: SC into each st around, working 2SC into the middle HDC at each corner. Sl st to first SC to join. Fasten off. Weave in all of your ends and your blanket is complete! Note: When it comes to weaving in your ends using chenille yarn, you may find that you experience a lot of shedding. To combat this you can use a lighter to melt the end of the yarn, only very lightly as you don't want any black charring! Then you can weave in your end as normal without the shedding. Project Complete! I really hope that you enjoyed making your very own Rainbow Drops Blanket! I'd love to see your versions so please do tag me in your posts on social media @Brambles.and.Hart and use the hashtags #BHFreePatternMakes   #BramblesandHart If you are not already following me on social media then what are you doing?! I'd love to see you over on Instagram @Brambles.and.Hart , and do subscribe to my YouTube Channel which will see a little revival very soon! If you would like to support me further and help me to keep creating free patterns and tutorials to share with you then do consider buying me a coffee on Ko-fi ! Happy crocheting! Shelley ♡

The Sunburst Granny Square is such a lovely design with many uses. These squares are perfect for beginners who have some familiarity with traditional granny squares and love their style but are looking for something with a bit more flair. Whether you make these squares in one colour, use a variegated yarn, stashbush or create sunflowers they always look amazing! You can use these squares to create a blanket, summer bucket hats, market bags, cardigans, jumper or even as little pockets for other garments! There are many variations on the Sunburst Granny Square and this pattern is for how I like to do mine. I do have a couple of options here one that uses puff stitches and one that doesn't - I know not everyone is a fan of puff stitches. Now let's get to the pattern ! Before you begin: You will need: Your choice of yarn A crochet hook that is suitable for that yarn Scissors Tapestry needle For this tutorial, I have used Paintbox Simply Aran with a 5mm hook. Stitch Abbreviations (US Terms) HDC - half double crochet DC - double crochet 2DC Cl - 2 double crochet cluster 3DC Cl - 3 double crochet cluster TR - treble crochet Puff - puff stitch Ch-sp - chain space Sl st - slip stitch Ch - chain Special Stitches 2DC Cl Yarn over, insert hook into st and pull up a loop. (3 loops on hook) Yarn over and pull through 2 loops. (2 loops on hook) Yarn over and insert hook into same st, pull up a loop (4 loops on hook) Yarn over and pull through 2 loops (3 loops on hook) Yarn over and pull through all loops on hook. 3DC Cl Yarn over, insert hook into st and pull up a loop. (3 loops on hook) Yarn over and pull through 2 loops. (2 loops on hook) Yarn over and insert hook into same st, pull up a loop (4 loops on hook) Yarn over, pull through 2 loops (3 loops on hook) Yarn over, insert hook into same st, pull up a loop (5 loops on hook) Yarn over, pull through 2 loops (4 loops on hook) Yarn over and pull through all loops on hook. Puff stitches Starting Puff Ch2, yarn over, insert hook into st and pull up a loop (3 loops on hook) Yarn over and insert hook into st at base of the ch2, pull up a loop (5 loops on hook) Yarn over and pull through all loops on hook. Normal Puff Yarn over, insert hook into st and pull up a loop (3 loops on hook). Yarn over and insert hook into same st, pull up a loop (5 loops on hook) Yarn over and pull through all loops on hook Pattern Notes: Starting chains may count as a stitch, this will be stated in the pattern. You will not turn your work at any point. If you want to change colour, do so at the end of a round joining The Pattern: Make a magic circle. Round 1: Into the magic circle, ch2 (counts as a stitch). Work 15 DC into the magic circle. Sl st to top of ch2 to join. (16 sts) Blue photos show Round1 and Round 2 Option 1- 2DC Cl. Round 2: Option 1 - 2DC Cl Ch2 and work a DC into the chain space at the base of the ch2 followed by a ch1. (This counts as your first 2DC Cl) Work a 2DC Cl followed by a ch1 into st around. Sl st to top of ch2 to join. (16 clusters and 16 chains) Option 2 - Puff Stitches Ch2 and work a beginning puff st (see special stitches) followed by a ch1. Work a puff stitch followed by a ch1 into each st around. Sl st to top of ch2 to join. (16 puffs and 16 chains) Cream photos show Round 1 and Round 2 Option 2 - puff stitches Note: The following rounds are worked the same way regardless of whether you chose option 1 or option 2 for round 2. Round 3: Sl st into the next ch-space along then ch2. Work a 2DC Cl into the ch-space and the base of the ch2 and ch2. (This counts as your first 3DC Cl) Work a 3DC Cl followed by a ch2 into each ch-space around. Sl st to top of ch2 to join. (16 clusters and 16 ch2-spaces) Round 4: Sl st into next ch-space along and ch3 (counts as a st). Work 2 TR into the ch-space at the base of ch3 (this is part of your first corner, we will finish it at the end of the round). *Over the next 3 ch-spaces work the following 3 DC, 3 HTR, 3 DC respectively. Work a corner [3 TR, ch1, 3 TR] into the next ch-space * Repeat from *to* two more times, you will have 3 complete corners. In the final 3 ch-spaces work 3 DC, 3 HTR, 3 DC respectively. Work 3 TR into the same ch-space as your starting chain. Ch1 and sl st to top of ch3 to join and complete the corner. Fasten off. What Next? You can use your Sunburst Granny Squares for any number of projects, many of which will require you to join your granny squares together. Follow my CJAYG (Continuous Join As You Go) Method to join your squares together with ease. A simple way to connect squares for blanket, bags cardigans and more! I'd love to see your work so please do tag me in your posts on social media @Brambles.and.Hart and use the hashtags #BHFreePatternMakes   #BramblesandHart If you are not already following me on social media then what are you doing?! I'd love to see you over on Instagram @Brambles.and.Hart , you can also follow me on TikTok (although I'm not particularly active there currently) and do subscribe to my YouTube Channel which will see a little revival very soon! If you would like to support me further and help me to keep creating free patterns and tutorials to share with you then do consider buying me a coffee on Ko-fi ! Happy crocheting! Shelley ♡