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In 2025, I completed my first book blanket and it was one of my most favourite projects of all time. It was definitely a challenge to keep up with a yearlong project but oh so worth it. I loved it so much that I am committing to doing another one for 2026! Whenever I've shared my book blanket progress online I've had DMs and comments asking for a pattern. Now I won't say that there is a strict pattern for my book blanket but I am going to outline what I did last year and what I plan to do this year so that you can do the same if you would like to. As with all crochet patterns there is a lot of room for customisation and making it something that reflects your personality. After all, you will be working on this for a whole year and so you want it to be something that you enjoy doing. I will share some ideas for how you could do things, whether you choose to do the same as me or something different. The possibilities really are endless though. What is a book blanket? Before we dive into discussing making a book blanket let’s first take a look at what a book blanket actually is. A book blanket is a yearlong project, similar in style to temperature blankets which have been super popular over recent years. The idea is that you make a square or crochet a row or two for every book that you read during the year. You are therefore, creating a kind memory map for the year, something you can look back on in years to come and think about all of the amazing books you read. It really is a special project to work on. You do not need to read an exorbitant amount of books to be able to make a book blanket. It can still be done even if you only read 20 books in the year. I’ll give for tips for that below too! There are lots of ways to go about making a book blanket and that’s where the real personalisation aspect comes in. It’s up to you if you want to do a granny square per book or crochet two rows of a blanket per book. You can choose whether you want to include books you DNF (Did Not Finish) or just those you did. It’s completely up to you. In this blog post I will be sharing how I approached my 2025 book blanket and the tweaks I am making for 2026 along with some alternative suggestions that you could use. My biggest bit of advice for your first book blanket, is to keep it simple and to use colours you love so that you want to keep working on it throughout the year. Choosing your Yarn Selecting the yarn for your book blanket requires careful consideration of a few different factors including: Yarn brand is it one that you can source easily? Yarn weight you can use any but think about how it will effect the overall size of your finished blanket Fibre use whatever you prefer be it acrylic, cotton, a wool-blend. It;s personal choice Colour palette I'll go into this in more detail below but it's possibly the most important aspect. In 2025, I used Yarnsmiths Create DK which is a 100% acrylic yarn. This was a great choice as Yarnsmiths is a brand that's readily available from Wool Warehouse, it has 120 shades to choose from, being acrylic means that it's durable yet soft enough for a blanket and it's easy on the price point too. This year, I'm using Yarnsmiths Merino DK. Again, this yarn is easy for me to get my hands on should I run out of any colours at any point, it has 120 shades to choose from and is a super soft, beautiful yarn. It is a little pricier than an acrylic yarn but I know that this is going to be a project that I will treasure long after it' completed so to me it's worth it. Selecting your colours When it comes to choosing your colours, you need to consider how you will be using colour in your blanket. For both of my blankets, colour is used to denote the star rating that I have given a book. Below you will can see the colours I chose last year vs this year. I have chosen less colours this year for two main reasons; one because I'm hoping the blanket will feel more cohesive with less colours, I'm not a huge fan of super colourful pieces (personal preference!). Two, it's easier to remember which colour I should be using when there are less of them! Other ways you could use colour: Different colour for the genre of the book read Colours to represent the book covers (great stash buster!) Each colour relates to the format e.g. Physical, audiobook, kindle, library etc Colour per month - great if you want to track how much you're reading at specific times throughout the year. Once you have chosen your colour palette you are ready to think about the layout or pattern for your book blanket. The Design For each of my blankets I have chosen to use granny squares (so that is what my directions will be for) but you could opt to do a ripple blanket, a granny stripe blanket, hexagons, C2C patchwork - whatever you like! I opted for granny squares because they are quick and easy to make, easy to store as I make a few at a time and also really easy to join together to create the overall blanket. It really is up to you what you choose but I do think a simple granny square blanket is the ideal option for beginners. Below you will find the written pattern that I use for a simple 4 round granny square using one colour. If you plan to use multiple colours then a pattern for that can be found here . Last year, I used the CJAYG method to join my squares as I made them and I will do the same again this year. It is my preferred method for joining squares together because it’s quick and easy, can be done a bit at a time and it looks great when using a contrast colour. If you wish to use a different method to join your squares then you absolutely can, it's whatever your preference is for the overall design. I'd set a goal of reading 75 books last year (I ended up reading 99!) so I had a rough idea of how to arrange my squares. I decided that each row would be 10 squares long. If you're planning to read more or less books then you could have the row be more or less squares. This is where the weight of yarn that you use comes into play too, a DK weight warn will create a smaller granny square than a chunky yarn would. If you were hoping to read 50 books in a year, then I would perhaps use an aran weight yarn with a 5.5 or 6mm crochet hook and work 5 rounds for each granny square instead of 4. I would then organise it as 7 or 8 squares per row, accepting that I would maybe have to add in some filler squares to even out the final row. I do include squares for any DNFs (Did Not Finish) so this alters the number of squares I have overall. The good thing with granny squares and the CJAYG method is that it's super easy to add squares to each row meaning you can make the blanket both wider and longer as you go if you need to. If the number of books you read in the year is not ‘enough’ to create a whole blanket then you could make filler squares in a neutral shade and alternate between a book square and a filler square. Another option would be to continue your project into the next year and keep adding to it until it’s the size you want. Alternatively, you could make your motifs bigger by adding more rounds or using chunkier yarn. This is your blanket, there is no right or wrong way to do it! Also it doesn’t have to be a blanket. Make it a granny square scarf or cushion cover instead! Granny Square Options If you do opt to use granny squares for your book blanket then there are a few different ways that you could do this. The easiest would be what I did last year - a 4 round granny square in one solid colour per book. Super easy to do, minimal ends to weave in, not too much thought involved and it gives a great overall finish. This year I am taking it up a notch and I'm making two different types of granny square. 5 round granny square for audiobooks Sunburst granny square for physical/kindle books All squares will be a singular colour showing its star rating. My reason for this is that last year I listened to A LOT of audiobooks and I would just like to see a visual representation of how I am consuming books this year. If you wanted to do something similar you could add in a third type of granny square (maybe a solid one) to differentiate between physical and kindle books. This isn't necessary but if you are someone who does read in multiple formats then it may be a fun way to record your reading habits. Granny Square Pattern Stitch Abbreviations (US Terms) MR - magic ring/magic circle DC - double crochet Sl st - slip stitch Ch - chain RS - right side WS - wrong side Pattern Notes: For both of my blankets I have used a DK weight yarn with a 4.5mm hook. You should use a hook size that compliments your chosen yarn. Ch2 at the start of the round does count as a stitch. You will be turning your work after every round. The Pattern: Make a magic circle. Round 1 (RS): Into the magic circle, ch2 (counts as a stitch here and throughout). Work 2 DC and ch1. Then work 3DC, ch1 repeating from to 2 more times. Sl st to top of ch2 to join. Turn your work. Note: At the end of this round you will have 4 clusters of 3DC and 4 ch1 spaces. The ch1 spaces are your corner spaces. Round 2 (WS): Ch2 and work 2 DC into the chain space at the base of the ch2. (This is the start of our first corner) [3DC, ch1, 3DC] into each of the next 3 ch1 corner spaces. 3DC into the final corner space (where you worked your initial ch2, 2DC) and ch1. Sl st to top of ch2 to join. (This completes the first corner) Turn your work. Note:  At the end of this round you will have 8 clusters of 3DC and 4 ch1 corner spaces. Note: These photos only show a 3 round granny square but all rounds are worked in the same way. Round 3 (RS): Ch2 and work 2 DC into the chain space at the base of the ch2. 3DC into the space between clusters from previous round and work [3DC, ch1, 3DC] into the corner space Repeat from to 2 more times. 3DC into the space between the clusters from the previous round. 3DC into the final corner space and ch1. Sl st to top of ch2 to join. Turn your work. Note: At the end of this round you will have a total of 12 clusters and 4 ch1 corner spaces. Round 4 (RS): Ch2 and work 2 DC into the chain space at the base of the ch2. 3DC into each of the spaces between clusters from the previous round. [3DC, ch1, 3DC] into the corner space Repeat from to two more times. 3DC into each of the spaces between the clusters from the previous round. 3DC into the final corner space and ch1. Sl st to top of ch2 to join. Fasten off. Note: At the end of this round you will have a total of 16 clusters and 4 ch1 corner spaces. Next week I will share a pattern for the Sunburst Granny Square should you wish to use that (when the pattern is available I'll link it here too). Remember, you can find a detailed tutorial for joining your granny squares here . Books and Crochet If you love both books and crochet, which I'm assuming you do, then be sure to follow me on social media @Brambles.and.Hart I'll be sharing regular Book Blanket updates throughout the year including the books that I have been reading, which ones I'm loving and those not so much. I'll be doing a monthly wrap up post both on instagram and here on the blog. I track my reading on the Fable App and if you are interested in using that too then you can sign up and join me there ! If you have any book recommendations for me then do let me know, I'm always looking to add to my TBR! If you decide to make a book blanket too then do tag me in your photos on social media @Brambles.and.Hart and use #B ookBlanket If you would like to support me further and help me to keep creating free patterns and tutorials to share with you then do consider buying me a coffee on Ko-fi ! Happy crocheting! Shelley ♡

One of my favourite ways to add a bit of crochet to my seasonal home decor is with a garland. I have patterns for Spring and Autum/Halloween garlands but have yet to create one for Christmas. That is until now! When I sat down to start designing my perfect Christmas garland I had so many ideas for motifs that I could include. Initially, I tried to narrow it down to just two or three different ones but at Christmas we're allowed to indulge and be a bit excessive and over the top aren't we? It's Christmas! As I have quite a few. motifs to include in the pattern and wanted to be able to provide some photo support for each motif, I have split this pattern into two parts. In Part 1 (this blog post) you can find the instructions for the following motifs: Mini Xmas Wreath Holly Stars (small and large) Santa Hat In Part 2 ( available here ) you will find the instructions for these motifs: Snowflake Candy Cane Christmas Tree Xmas bauble If you would like to have the full instructions for all 8 motifs (plus an exclusive 9th motif - gingerbread man!) and instructions for turning them into a garland, all in one place then you can purchase the inexpensive PDF pattern on my website or Etsy . Use code XMASBLOG to receive 20% off ! Whether you want to have one or two of each motif on your garland or Pick 'n' Mix your favourite ones that is completely up to you! I have stuck with traditional Christmas colours of reds and greens as I do love a classic Christmas colourway but you can express your own festive style with whatever colours you choose! The pattern below will show you how to make each of the motifs (Mini Xmas Wreath, Holly, Stars and Santa Hat) individually. Let's get to the pattern ! Before you begin: You will need: Aran/worsted/4 weight cotton yarn or yarn of your choosing 4mm hook or hook 1mm smaller than that suggested for the yarn Scissors Tapestry needle Notes on yarn choice: Here I am using Yarnsmiths Cotton Aran in colours Clover, Christmas Green (darker). Crimson, Claret Red (darker), Mustard Yellow and Cream. Whilst I have used cotton yarn for my motifs you do not have to however, acrylic yarn may not be as sturdy. If you find that your motifs are a little floppy I would suggest sizing down your hook. Using different weight yarns such as DK/light worsted or Super chunky yarn and their corresponding hooks would allow you to alter the size of the motifs to be larger or smaller. Stitch Abbreviations (US Terms) Ch - chain MR - magic ring/magic circle SC - single crochet HDC - half double crochet DC - double crochet 2TOG - two stitches worked together to decrease Sl st - slip stitch St/s - stitch/es RS - right side WS - wrong side Pattern Notes: Any special stitches required will be listed at the start of the pattern for the motif on which they are used. Starting chains do not count as a stitch unless specified. The patterns below are written with directions for the colours I have used, you can of course substitue the colours for whatever you would like to use. The Patterns: Mini Xmas Wreath Using Christmas Green and a 4mm hook, ch15 and sl st to the first chain to create a circle. Be careful not to twist the chain. Round 1 (RS): Work 20 HDC over the chain. Sl st to the first HDC to join. Do not chain, instead pull your loop up to the height of a HDC. (20 sts) Round 2 (WS): *HDC into the first st, 2HDC into the next stitch* Repeat this around, sl st to first HDC to join. (30 sts) Fasten off and weave in your ends. Adding the bow: Take a long piece of yarn in Crimson (red) and thread it onto a tapestry needle. Insert the needle through the space between the stitches (see photo) from the front leaving a long tail. Weave your needle in and out of the stitches all the way around until you meet the beginning again. Ensure that you pull your yarn back through to the front. Tie a little bow, turning your wreath around if you would like the bow at the bottom like I have, otherwise you can keep it at the top. Trim off the ends. Note: this is the fiddliest part of the pattern! Tie a large bow and then pull the two tails to decrease the size of the loops, you can then trim off the excess tails. Holly Leaves & Berries Special stitches: Picot - ch3, sl st into the 3rd ch from the hook. Bobble stitch (DC5TOG) - YO and insert your hook into the magic ring, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook). YO and pull through two loops (2 loops on hook). *YO and insert hook into magic ring, pull up a loop. YO and pull through two loops* Repeat until you have 6 loops on your hook. YO and pull through all loops. Holly leaves: Make 2 Using Christmas Green and a 4mm hook, ch10 Round 1: SC into the 2nd chain from your hook. Then work the following; 2 HDC, DC, 2DC into the next st, DC, 2 HDC and 3 SC into the final st. (12 sts so far) This will begin to turn your work slightly, let it as you will now work back along the underside of chain. 2 HDC, DC, 2DC into the next st (this will be the same st as the 2DC from the previous row), DC, 2 HDC, and SC in the last ch. Sl st into the first SC., This brings you back around to your first side. Round 2: Skip the stitch into which you sl stitched and work a SC inot the next st. Picot st from that SC. SC in the next st and sl st into the following st. (first point created). * (SC, picot) into the next st, followed by a SC and a sl st * repeat from *to * 4 more times. To create your final point, (SC, picot), SC and then sl st into the final st. You will have a total of 7 picot points. Fasten off. Note: Before you fasten off your second leaf, place it over the top of your first one at an andle (see photo) and sl st through the first leaf to join the two together and then fasten off. Berries: Using Crimson and a 4mm hook, create a magic ring. Ch1 and into the magic ring, work a *bobble st, ch1* repeat two more times, pulling the tail of the magic ring to tighten before you work your third and final bobble stitch. Pull tail to full close magic ring and sl st to first bobble st to join. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for joining to the leaves. Joining together: Insert the tail of the berries through the top of the leaves where they are joined together. Move the pieces about slightly until they are how you would like them to look and then sew the berries onto the leaves. Weave in any ends. Stars Using your chosen colour and a 4mm hook, make a magic ring. Small Star Into the MR work 10 HDC. Sl st to first st to join. *Ch 4, SC in 2nd chain from the hook. HDC into next ch, DC into last ch. Skip one st, sl st to next HDC along.* Repeat 4 more times to complete the star. Fasten off and weave in your ends. Large Star Into a MR work 15 DC. Sl st to first st to join. *Ch 5, SC in 2nd chain from the hook. HDC into next ch, DC into next ch, TR into final ch. Skip one st, sl st to next DC along.* Repeat 4 more times to complete the star. Fasten off and weave in your ends. {Photos below shows large star} Santa Hat Using Claret Red and a 4mm hook, ch3. Hat Row 1: HDC into the 2nd chain from the hook and into the final chain. Ch1 and turn. (2 sts) Row 2: 2HDC into each of the two sts. Ch1 and turn. (4 sts) Row 3: HDC into each st along, ch1 and turn. (4 sts) Row 4: 2HDC into the first st, HDC in each st until one st remaining, 2HDC into the final st. (6 sts) Row 5: HDC into each st along, ch1 and turn. (6 sts) Rows 6 -7: Repeat rows 4 and 5. (8 sts) Row 8: Repeat row 4 (10 sts) Fasten off Claret Red and attach Cream. Row 9: SC into each st along. Ch 1 and turn. (10 sts) Row 10: *DC into the first st, SC into the next st* repeat along. (10 sts) Turn your work so that the textured (bumpy) side of the final row is facing you. This is the RS of your hat. Fasten off Cream. Pompom Using Cream, make a magic ring. Into the MR, *DC, SC* 5 times. Sl st to first st to join. (10 sts) Turn your work so that the textured (bumpy) side is facing you. This is the RS of your pompom. Fasten off leaving a long tail to sew onto hat. Sew the pompom onto the tip of the hat (or use a hot glue gun!) ensuring that the RS of each are facing the same way. Then weave in any ends. That's the first 4 motifs complete! be sure to check back to the blog next week for the remaining 4 motifs and how to join your motifs together! Coming next week: Snowflake Candy Cane Christmas Tree Bauble I'd love to see your work so please do tag me in your posts on social media @Brambles.and.Hart and use the hashtags #BHFreePatternMakes   #BramblesandHart If you are not already following me on social media then what are you doing?! I'd love to see you over on Instagram @Brambles.and.Hart , you can also follow me on TikTok (although I'm not particularly active there currently) and do subscribe to my YouTube Channel which will see a little revival very soon! If you would like to support me further and help me to keep creating free patterns and tutorials to share with you then do consider buying me a coffee on Ko-fi ! Happy crocheting! Shelley ♡

Are you looking for an eye-catching Christmas Jumper to wear this festive season? Then I've got you covered! The Candy Cane Lane Sweater is made using chunky/bulky/5 weight yarn so it works up nice and quick. In a couple of evenings you can have this sweater finished ready to dazzle your friends and family at your work Christmas party or festive family get-together! Add Candy Canes to just the front or to the back too, it's completely your choice. Fancy adding something else alongside the Candy Canes? Then check out the Christmas Pick 'n' Mix Garland pattern which features 7 other festive motifs which you can use as appliques on your sweater. The Candy Cane Lane Sweater was previously published in issue 101 of Crochet Now magazine. Some slight adjustments have been made to the pattern here but overall it is the same. Now let's get to the pattern ! Before you begin: You will need: Crochet hooks: 6.5mm and 7mm for the sweater (or size needed to obtain gauge) 4mm hook for the candy cane appliques Chunky/Bulky/5 weight yarn - See note below Aran/Worsted/4 weight yarn in white and red for the candy canes Tapestry needle Scissors Measuring tape Stitch markers Yarn note: For my sweater I used Stylecraft Special Chunky in Aspen (main colour) and Fondant (contrast colour). Whilst this is a chunky/bulky/5 weight yarn it is definitely on the lighter side so be sure to do a gauge swatch with your chosen yarn before you begin. Some thicker aran/worsted weight yarns may be appropriate substitutions. Stitch Abbreviations (US Terms) Ch - chain Sl st - slip stitch SC - single crochet HDC - half double crochet DC - double crochet BLO - in the back loop only HDC2TOG - half double crochet 2 together (decrease) Yardage For the jumper you will need the following number of 100g balls per colour. This is based off of the Stylecraft Special Chunky used for the sample sweater. Main Colour (5, 6, 7, 7, 8, 8, 9, 10, 10) balls Contrast Colour (2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 3, 3, 3, 3) balls For all sizes you will also need 1x 100g of aran weight yarn in white and some red yarn for adding on the stripes to the candy canes. Gauge Using chunky yarn and a 7mm hook. 10 HDC stitches x 9 rows = 10cm x 10cm (4" x 4") Measurements All measurements are given in cms. Finished Chest is measured from underarm to underarm with garment laid flat. Length is measured from neckline to bottom of jumper. Sleeves are measured from underarm to the end of the cuff. The jumper is designed with a positive ease of 13-19cm around the chest. In CM To Fit Chest (circumference) Finished Chest Length Sleeve X-Small 71-76 45 58 41.5 Small 81-86 50 58 42.5 Medium 91-97 55 60 42.5 Large 101-107 60 60 44.5 X Large 111-117 65 62 44.5 2X Large 122-127 70 62 44.5 3X Large 132-137 75 64 46 4X Large 142-147 80 65 48 5X Large 152-158 85 66 48 Pattern Notes: The Candy Cane Lane Sweater is made up of 4 pieces; the front panel, back panel and two sleeves. The ribbing and neckband are worked directly onto the jumper once all seaming has been completed. The sleeves are worked independently and then sewn onto the main body, therefore if you would like to follow the sleeve pattern for a different size this is easy to do. Ch1 does not count as a stitch. The stitch counts for each size will be given as follows: ( XS, S , M , L , XL , 2X , 3X , 4X , 5X sts) If separate instructions are required for a specific size this will be made clear. Where only one stitch count is given this means that it is the same for every size. The length of the sweater is easily adjustable by repeating more or less of the HDC rows before the neck shaping. The Pattern: Back Panel Ch 46 , 51 , 56 , 61 , 66 , 71 , 76 , 81 , 86 Row 1 (RS): Starting in the 2nd ch from hook, HDC in each ch across. Ch1 and turn. ( 45 , 50 , 55 , 60 , 65 , 70 , 75 , 80 , 85 sts) Row 2 (WS): HDC in each st across. Ch1 and turn. ( 45 , 50 , 55 , 60 , 65 , 70 , 75 , 80 , 85 sts) Row 3 onwards: Repeat row 2 until you have 45 , 45 , 47 , 47 , 49 , 49 , 51 , 53 , 53 rows altogether. Fasten off. Note: If you wish to adjust the length of your sweater then you can do so by working more or less HDC rows. Just be sure to keep a note of how many rows you did so that you can match it for the front panel. I recommend working an odd number of rows so the RS/WS remains the same as in the pattern. Continue to Front Panel. Front Panel Work same as for back panel until you have 42 , 42 , 44 , 44 , 46 , 46 , 48 , 50 , 50 rows Note: If you modified your row count for the back panel then you will need to work HDC rows until you reach 3 less than your desired number. E.g. desired number of rows to match back panel 43, work to row 40. Neck Shaping (right hand side with sweater facing you) Row 1: HDC in the first 14 , 16 , 18 , 20 , 22 , 24 , 26 , 28 , 30 sts. HDC2TOG across the next 2 sts. Ch1 and turn. ( 15 , 17 , 19 , 21 , 23 , 25 , 27 , 29 , 31 sts) Row 2: HDC2TOG across the first 2 sts. HDC in each st across. Ch1 and turn. ( 14 , 16 , 18 , 20 , 22 , 24 , 26 , 28 , 30 sts) Row 3: HDC in the first 13 , 15 , 17 , 19 , 21 , 23 , 25 , 27 , 29 HDC. HDC2 TOG across the last 2 sts. ( 13 , 15 , 17 , 19 , 21 , 23 , 25 , 27 , 29 sts) Your total row count should be 45 , 45 , 47 , 47 , 49 , 49 , 51 , 53 , 53   the same as for the back panel. Fasten off leaving a 35cm tail for seaming. Neck Shaping (left hand side with sweater facing you) With RS facing, count 16 , 18 , 20 , 22 , 24 , 26 , 28 , 30 , 32 sts from the left and attach your yarn. Ch1 ready to begin the first row. Row 1: HDC2TOG across the first 2 sts. HDC in the next 14 , 16 , 18 , 20 , 22 , 24 , 26 , 28 , 30 sts.  Ch1 and turn. ( 15 , 17 , 19 , 21 , 23 , 25 , 27 , 29 , 31 sts) Row 2: HDC across, HDC2TOG across the last 2 sts. Ch1 and turn. ( 14 , 16 , 18 , 20 , 22 , 24 , 26 , 28 , 30 sts) Row 3: HDC2TOG, HDC in eah st across. ( 13 , 15 , 17 , 19 , 21 , 23 , 25 , 27 , 29 sts) Fasten off leaving a 35cm tail for seaming. Sleeves (make 2) Cuffs: Using a 6.5mm hook and your contrast colour . Row 1: Ch 10. Starting in the 2nd ch from hook, sc in each st across. Ch1 and turn. (9 sts). Row 2: SCBLO in each st across. Ch1 and turn. (9sts). Row 3 onwards: Repeat row 2 until you have 18 , 18 , 20 , 22 , 24 , 26 , 28 , 30 , 32 rows. Join the ribbing by working a sl st in the BLO of the last row sts and the underside of the foundation chain. Turn your work so that you can work around the top edge of the cuff. HDC into the side of each row of ribbing. Sl st to join, Fasten off contrast colour . ( 18 , 18 , 20 , 22 , 24 , 26 , 28 , 30 , 32 sts) You are now going to be working in joined rounds. Continue to Sleeve. Sleeve Join main colour and switch to a 7mm hook. Round 1 (RS): HDC into the first st, 2HDC into the next st repeat from to around. Sl st to join, ch1 and turn. ( 27 , 27 , 30 , 33 , 36 , 39 , 42 , 45 , 48 sts) Rounds 2-6: HDC into each st around. Sl st to join, ch 1 and turn. ( 27 , 27 , 30 , 33 , 36 , 39 , 42 , 45 , 48 sts) Round 7 (RS) INC: 2HDC into the first st, HDC around, 2HDC into the last st. Sl st to join, ch1 and turn. ( 29 , 29 , 32 , 35 , 38 , 41 , 44 , 47 , 50 sts) Rounds 8-12: HDC into each st around. Sl st to join, ch1 and turn. ( 29 , 29 , 32 , 35 , 38 , 41 , 44 , 47 , 50 sts) Round 13 (RS) INC: 2HDC into the first st. HDC around, 2HDC into the last st. Sl st to join, ch1 and turn. ( 31 , 31 , 34 , 37 , 40 , 43 , 46 , 49 , 52 sts) Last INC round for size XS Rounds 14-18: HDC into each st around. Sl tst to join, ch1 and turn. ( 31 , 31 , 34 , 37 , 40 , 43 , 46 , 49 , 52 sts) XS Round 19: HDC into each st around. Sl st to join. ch1 and turn. ( 31 sts) Continue working rounds of HDC until you have 31 rounds in total. Fasten off leaving a 50cm tail. All other sizes Round 19 (RS) INC: 2HDC into the first st, HDC around, 2HDC into the last st. Sl st to join, ch1 and turn. ( 33 , 36 , 39 , 42 , 45 , 48 , 51 , 54 sts) Rounds 20-24: HDC into each st around. Sl st to join, ch1 and turn. ( 33 , 36 , 39 , 42 , 45 , 48 , 51 , 54 sts) Round 25 (RS) INC: 2HDC into the first st, HDC around, 2HDC into the last st. Sl st to join, ch1 and turn. ( 35 , 38 , 41 , 44 , 47 , 50 , 53 , 56 sts) Last INC round for S , M , L , XL Rounds 26 - 31: HDC in each st around. Sl st to join, ch1 and turn. ( 35 , 38 , 41 , 44 , 47 , 50 , 53 , 56 sts) Size S fasten off leaving a 55cm tail. Sizes M , L XL work rounds of HDC until you have a total of 33 , 33 , 34 rounds. Fasten off leaving a 55cm tail. 2X , 3X , 4X , 5X continue Round 32 (RS) INC): 2HDC into the first st, HDC around, 2HDC into the last st. Sl st to join, ch1 and turn. ( 49 , 52 , 55 , 58 sts) (This is an optional increase round, you can replace with a standard HDC round if you wish) Round 33 onwards: HDC in each st around. Sl st to join, ch1 and turn. ( 49 , 52 , 55 , 58 sts) Repeat until you have a total of 35 , 35 , 36 , 36 rounds. Fasten off leaving a 65cm tail. Continue to seaming. Seaming Notes before you begin: The Right Sides of your work will always be facing each other. If you haven’t already, it’s a good idea to mark the RS of both your panels with a stitch marker. I recommend whip stitching as the seaming method but please feel free to do whatever you are most confident with if you usually use a different method. Before you begin seaming your panels together, lay your front panel down flat and line up your sleeves so that you can mark where your arm holes need to begin (the end tail of each sleeve should be orientated to the underside centre so that it will be inline with the seam). Main Body Lay your front and back panels side by side, WS facing you, with the shoulders lined up. If you are leaving a Thread your tapestry needle with a long tail, approximately 80-100cm (rather too much than not enough) and work the needle through the very edge of both panels from right to left, tying a knot to secure. You will then whip stitch your two panels together until just before the stitch marker denoting where your armhole will begin. Do not fasten off your yarn just yet incase you need to adjust your seam. Flip your work over and bring the two unjoined edges together, the WS of each panel should now be facing you, repeat the instructions for seaming on this side also. Shoulders Using the long tails left from the neck shaping, whip stitch your along the length of your shoulders. Fasten off. Sleeves With the WS of your jumper facing you, insert your first sleeve through the armhole and line up the sleeve to the armhole. It should fit neatly without the need to stretch out the sleeve or the armhole too much. If your side seam needs increasing or pulling back adjust as needed. Using the long tail left on sleeve, whip stitch around the armhole and the opening of your sleeve. You want to ensure that you work through each stitch of the sleeve. Fasten off and repeat for the second sleeve. Turn your jumper the right way out and double check that the RS of both panels and your sleeves are now facing you. Continue to Ribbing. Finishing Touches Both the ribbing and the neckband will be worked in your contrast colour and will use a 6.5mm hook. Ribbing - Hem With the RS of your sweater facing you, attach your contrast colour to the centre of one of the side seams. Ch1 and SC in each st around the bottom of your jumper. Sl st to join and ch 14 Row 1: Starting in the 2nd ch from hook, sc in each st across. Ch1 and turn. Sl st into the first st and again into the second st along. Ch1 and turn. (13 sts) Row 2: SCBLO in each st across of your previous row. Ch1 and turn. (13 sts). Row 3: SCBLO into each st across. Sl st into the next 2 sts across. Ch1 and turn. (13 sts) Repeat rows 2 and 3 all around the bottom hem of the sweater then join the ribbing by working a sl st in the BLO of the last row sts and the underside of the foundation chain. Fasten off. Neckband Join your yarn to the centre stitch of your back panel and ch1. SC in each st around, working 2SCTOG across the corners where the neck shaping joins the front panel. Sl st to join and Ch 20 . Row1: Starting in the 2nd ch from hook, sc in each st across. Ch1 and turn. Sl st into the first st and again into the second st along. Ch1 and turn. (19 sts) Row 2: SCBLO in each st across of your previous row. Ch1 and turn. (19 sts). Row 3: SCBLO into each st across. Sl st into the next 2 sts across. Ch1 and turn. (19 sts) Repeat rows 2 and 3 around your neckband until you are back to your first row. Join the ribbing by working a sl st in the BLO of the last row sts and the underside of the foundation chain. Note: If you would like a single layer neckband or a much smaller neckband then simply alter the number of chains you do and work accordingly. Fold over your neckband and weave in all of your ends - your sweater is complete! Adding the Appliques The amount of candy canes (or other motifs) that you choose to add to your sweater is up to you. For the sample sweater I made 6 'right curve' candy canes and 3 'left curve' candy canes and only added them to the front of the sweater. If you want to add them all over then you can make more. To attach the appliques, either sew them on using the same colour yarn or you can use a hot glue gun to attach them (my preferred method but I know it's nopt for everyone!) Candy Canes Right Curve DC into the 3 rd  ch from the hook and into the next 11 sts. 3DC into the next st. Work 2TR into each of the next 6 sts. Place a DC into the final st. Ch2 and sl st into the final chain. Fasten off white. Left Curve DC into the 3 rd  chain from the hook. Work 2TR into each of the next 6 sts. 3DC into the next st. DC into the remaining 12 sts. Ch2 and sl st to the final chain. Fasten off white. Adding stripes Thread Crimson yarn through a tapestry needle. Starting at the bottom, insert needle from the back and insert through a stitch diagonally on the opposite side. To try and keep the stripes evenly spaced, work the red yarn through every other stitch on the inside of the candy cane and the 2 nd  or 3 rd  st of the outside. Congratulations, you have completed your Candy Cane Lane Sweater and are ready to dazzle this festive season! I really hope that you enjoyed making this free pattern. I'd love to see your work so please do tag me in your posts on social media @Brambles.and.Hart and use the hashtags #BHFreePatternMakes   #BramblesandHart If you are not already following me on social media then what are you doing?! I'd love to see you over on Instagram @Brambles.and.Hart , you can also follow me on TikTok (although I'm not particularly active there currently) and do subscribe to my YouTube Channel which will see a little revival in the new year! Happy crocheting! Shelley ♡