Candy Cane Lane Sweater - Free Pattern

Are you looking for an eye-catching Christmas Jumper to wear this festive season? Then I've got you covered!

The Candy Cane Lane Sweater is made using chunky/bulky/5 weight yarn so it works up nice and quick. In a couple of evenings you can have this sweater finished ready to dazzle your friends and family at your work Christmas party or festive family get-together!

Add Candy Canes to just the front or to the back too, it's completely your choice. Fancy adding something else alongside the Candy Canes? Then check out the Christmas Pick 'n' Mix Garland pattern which features 7 other festive motifs which you can use as appliques on your sweater.

The Candy Cane Lane Sweater was previously published in issue 101 of Crochet Now magazine. Some slight adjustments have been made to the pattern here but overall it is the same.

Now let's get to the pattern!

Before you begin:

You will need:

• Crochet hooks: 6.5mm and 7mm for the sweater (or size needed to obtain gauge) 4mm hook for the candy cane appliques

• Chunky/Bulky/5 weight yarn - See note below

• Aran/Worsted/4 weight yarn in white and red for the candy canes

• Tapestry needle

• Scissors

• Measuring tape

• Stitch markers

Yarn note:

For my sweater I used Stylecraft Special Chunky in Aspen (main colour) and Fondant (contrast colour). Whilst this is a chunky/bulky/5 weight yarn it is definitely on the lighter side so be sure to do a gauge swatch with your chosen yarn before you begin. Some thicker aran/worsted weight yarns may be appropriate substitutions.

Stitch Abbreviations

(US Terms)

Ch - chain

Sl st - slip stitch

SC - single crochet

HDC - half double crochet

DC - double crochet

BLO - in the back loop only

HDC2TOG - half double crochet 2 together (decrease)

Yardage

For the jumper you will need the following number of 100g balls per colour. This is based off of the Stylecraft Special Chunky used for the sample sweater.

Main Colour (5, 6, 7, 7, 8, 8, 9, 10, 10) balls

Contrast Colour (2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 3, 3, 3, 3) balls

For all sizes you will also need 1x 100g of aran weight yarn in white and some red yarn for adding on the stripes to the candy canes.

Gauge

Using chunky yarn and a 7mm hook.

10 HDC stitches x 9 rows = 10cm x 10cm (4" x 4")

Measurements

• All measurements are given in cms.

• Finished Chest is measured from underarm to underarm with garment laid flat.

• Length is measured from neckline to bottom of jumper.

• Sleeves are measured from underarm to the end of the cuff.

• The jumper is designed with a positive ease of 13-19cm around the chest.

In CM	To Fit Chest (circumference)	Finished Chest	Length	Sleeve
X-Small	71-76	45	58	41.5
Small	81-86	50	58	42.5
Medium	91-97	55	60	42.5
Large	101-107	60	60	44.5
X Large	111-117	65	62	44.5
2X Large	122-127	70	62	44.5
3X Large	132-137	75	64	46
4X Large	142-147	80	65	48
5X Large	152-158	85	66	48

Pattern Notes:

• The Candy Cane Lane Sweater is made up of 4 pieces; the front panel, back panel and two sleeves.

• The ribbing and neckband are worked directly onto the jumper once all seaming has been completed.

• The sleeves are worked independently and then sewn onto the main body, therefore if you would like to follow the sleeve pattern for a different size this is easy to do.

• Ch1 does not count as a stitch.

• The stitch counts for each size will be given as follows: (XS, S, M, L, XL, 2X, 3X, 4X, 5X sts) If separate instructions are required for a specific size this will be made clear. Where only one stitch count is given this means that it is the same for every size.

• The length of the sweater is easily adjustable by repeating more or less of the HDC rows before the neck shaping.

The Pattern:

Back Panel

Ch 46, 51, 56, 61, 66, 71, 76, 81, 86

Row 1 (RS):

Starting in the 2nd ch from hook, HDC in each ch across. Ch1 and turn. (45, 50, 55, 60, 65, 70, 75, 80, 85 sts)

Row 2 (WS):

HDC in each st across. Ch1 and turn. (45, 50, 55, 60, 65, 70, 75, 80, 85 sts)

Row 3 onwards:

Repeat row 2 until you have 45, 45, 47, 47, 49, 49, 51, 53, 53 rows altogether.

Fasten off.

Note: If you wish to adjust the length of your sweater then you can do so by working more or less HDC rows. Just be sure to keep a note of how many rows you did so that you can match it for the front panel. I recommend working an odd number of rows so the RS/WS remains the same as in the pattern.

Continue to Front Panel.

Front Panel

Work same as for back panel until you have 42, 42, 44, 44, 46, 46, 48, 50, 50 rows

Note: If you modified your row count for the back panel then you will need to work HDC rows until you reach 3 less than your desired number. E.g. desired number of rows to match back panel 43, work to row 40.

Neck Shaping (right hand side with sweater facing you)

Row 1:

HDC in the first 14, 16, 18, 20, 22, 24, 26, 28, 30 sts. HDC2TOG across the next 2 sts. Ch1 and turn.

(15, 17, 19, 21, 23, 25, 27, 29, 31 sts)

Row 2:

HDC2TOG across the first 2 sts. HDC in each st across. Ch1 and turn.

(14, 16, 18, 20, 22, 24, 26, 28, 30 sts)

Row 3:

HDC in the first 13, 15, 17, 19, 21, 23, 25, 27, 29 HDC. HDC2 TOG across the last 2 sts.

(13, 15, 17, 19, 21, 23, 25, 27, 29 sts)

Your total row count should be 45, 45, 47, 47, 49, 49, 51, 53, 53 the same as for the back panel.

Fasten off leaving a 35cm tail for seaming.

Neck Shaping (left hand side with sweater facing you)

With RS facing, count 16, 18, 20, 22, 24, 26, 28, 30, 32 sts from the left and attach your yarn. Ch1 ready to begin the first row.

Row 1:

HDC2TOG across the first 2 sts. HDC in the next 14, 16, 18, 20, 22, 24, 26, 28, 30 sts.  Ch1 and turn.

(15, 17, 19, 21, 23, 25, 27, 29, 31 sts)

Row 2:

HDC across, HDC2TOG across the last 2 sts. Ch1 and turn. (14, 16, 18, 20, 22, 24, 26, 28, 30 sts)

Row 3:

HDC2TOG, HDC in eah st across. (13, 15, 17, 19, 21, 23, 25, 27, 29 sts)

Fasten off leaving a 35cm tail for seaming.

Sleeves

(make 2)

Cuffs:

Using a 6.5mm hook and your contrast colour .

Row 1:

Ch 10. Starting in the 2nd ch from hook, sc in each st across. Ch1 and turn. (9 sts).

Row 2:

SCBLO in each st across. Ch1 and turn. (9sts).

Row 3 onwards:

Repeat row 2 until you have 18, 18, 20, 22, 24, 26, 28, 30, 32 rows.

Join the ribbing by working a sl st in the BLO of the last row sts and the underside of the foundation chain.

Turn your work so that you can work around the top edge of the cuff. HDC into the side of each row of ribbing. Sl st to join, Fasten off contrast colour. (18, 18, 20, 22, 24, 26, 28, 30, 32 sts)

You are now going to be working in joined rounds.

Continue to Sleeve.

Sleeve

Join main colour and switch to a 7mm hook.

Round 1 (RS):

HDC into the first st, 2HDC into the next st repeat from to around. Sl st to join, ch1 and turn.

(27, 27, 30, 33, 36, 39, 42, 45, 48 sts)

Rounds 2-6:

HDC into each st around. Sl st to join, ch 1 and turn. (27, 27, 30, 33, 36, 39, 42, 45, 48 sts)

Round 7 (RS) INC:

2HDC into the first st, HDC around, 2HDC into the last st. Sl st to join, ch1 and turn.

(29, 29, 32, 35, 38, 41, 44, 47, 50 sts)

Rounds 8-12:

HDC into each st around. Sl st to join, ch1 and turn. (29, 29, 32, 35, 38, 41, 44, 47, 50 sts)

Round 13 (RS) INC:

2HDC into the first st. HDC around, 2HDC into the last st. Sl st to join, ch1 and turn.

(31, 31, 34, 37, 40, 43, 46, 49, 52 sts)

Last INC round for size XS

Rounds 14-18:

HDC into each st around. Sl tst to join, ch1 and turn. (31, 31, 34, 37, 40, 43, 46, 49, 52 sts)

XS Round 19:

HDC into each st around. Sl st to join. ch1 and turn. (31 sts)

Continue working rounds of HDC until you have 31 rounds in total. Fasten off leaving a 50cm tail.

All other sizes

Round 19 (RS) INC:

2HDC into the first st, HDC around, 2HDC into the last st. Sl st to join, ch1 and turn.

(33, 36, 39, 42, 45, 48, 51, 54 sts)

Rounds 20-24:

HDC into each st around. Sl st to join, ch1 and turn. (33, 36, 39, 42, 45, 48, 51, 54 sts)

Round 25 (RS) INC:

2HDC into the first st, HDC around, 2HDC into the last st. Sl st to join, ch1 and turn.

(35, 38, 41, 44, 47, 50, 53, 56 sts)

Last INC round for S, M, L, XL

Rounds 26 - 31:

HDC in each st around. Sl st to join, ch1 and turn. (35, 38, 41, 44, 47, 50, 53, 56 sts)

Size S fasten off leaving a 55cm tail.

Sizes M, L XL work rounds of HDC until you have a total of 33, 33, 34 rounds. Fasten off leaving a 55cm tail.

2X, 3X, 4X, 5X continue

Round 32 (RS) INC):

2HDC into the first st, HDC around, 2HDC into the last st. Sl st to join, ch1 and turn. (49, 52, 55, 58 sts)

(This is an optional increase round, you can replace with a standard HDC round if you wish)

Round 33 onwards:

HDC in each st around. Sl st to join, ch1 and turn. (49, 52, 55, 58 sts)

Repeat until you have a total of 35, 35, 36, 36 rounds.

Fasten off leaving a 65cm tail.

Continue to seaming.

Seaming

Notes before you begin:

• The Right Sides of your work will always be facing each other. If you haven’t already, it’s a good idea to mark the RS of both your panels with a stitch marker.

• I recommend whip stitching as the seaming method but please feel free to do whatever you are most confident with if you usually use a different method.

• Before you begin seaming your panels together, lay your front panel down flat and line up your sleeves so that you can mark where your arm holes need to begin (the end tail of each sleeve should be orientated to the underside centre so that it will be inline with the seam).

Main Body

Lay your front and back panels side by side, WS facing you, with the shoulders lined up. If you are leaving a

Thread your tapestry needle with a long tail, approximately 80-100cm (rather too much than not enough) and work the needle through the very edge of both panels from right to left, tying a knot to secure.

You will then whip stitch your two panels together until just before the stitch marker denoting where your armhole will begin. Do not fasten off your yarn just yet incase you need to adjust your seam.

Flip your work over and bring the two unjoined edges together, the WS of each panel should now be facing you, repeat the instructions for seaming on this side also.

Shoulders

Using the long tails left from the neck shaping, whip stitch your along the length of your shoulders.

Fasten off.

Sleeves

With the WS of your jumper facing you, insert your first sleeve through the armhole and line up the sleeve to the armhole. It should fit neatly without the need to stretch out the sleeve or the armhole too much. If your side seam needs increasing or pulling back adjust as needed.

Using the long tail left on sleeve, whip stitch around the armhole and the opening of your sleeve. You want to ensure that you work through each stitch of the sleeve. Fasten off and repeat for the second sleeve.

Turn your jumper the right way out and double check that the RS of both panels and your sleeves are now facing you.

Continue to Ribbing.

Finishing Touches

Both the ribbing and the neckband will be worked in your contrast colour and will use a 6.5mm hook.

Ribbing - Hem

With the RS of your sweater facing you, attach your contrast colour to the centre of one of the side seams.

Ch1 and SC in each st around the bottom of your jumper. Sl st to join and ch 14

Row 1:

Starting in the 2nd ch from hook, sc in each st across. Ch1 and turn. Sl st into the first st and again into the second st along. Ch1 and turn. (13 sts)

Row 2:

SCBLO in each st across of your previous row. Ch1 and turn. (13 sts).

Row 3:

SCBLO into each st across. Sl st into the next 2 sts across. Ch1 and turn. (13 sts)

Repeat rows 2 and 3 all around the bottom hem of the sweater then join the ribbing by working a sl st in the BLO of the last row sts and the underside of the foundation chain.

Fasten off.

Neckband

Join your yarn to the centre stitch of your back panel and ch1.

SC in each st around, working 2SCTOG across the corners where the neck shaping joins the front panel. Sl st to join and Ch 20.

Row1:

Starting in the 2nd ch from hook, sc in each st across. Ch1 and turn. Sl st into the first st and again into the second st along. Ch1 and turn. (19 sts)

Row 2:

SCBLO in each st across of your previous row. Ch1 and turn. (19 sts).

Row 3:

SCBLO into each st across. Sl st into the next 2 sts across. Ch1 and turn. (19 sts)

Repeat rows 2 and 3 around your neckband until you are back to your first row.

Join the ribbing by working a sl st in the BLO of the last row sts and the underside of the foundation chain.

Note: If you would like a single layer neckband or a much smaller neckband then simply alter the number of chains you do and work accordingly.

Fold over your neckband and weave in all of your ends - your sweater is complete!

Adding the Appliques

The amount of candy canes (or other motifs) that you choose to add to your sweater is up to you. For the sample sweater I made 6 'right curve' candy canes and 3 'left curve' candy canes and only added them to the front of the sweater. If you want to add them all over then you can make more.

To attach the appliques, either sew them on using the same colour yarn or you can use a hot glue gun to attach them (my preferred method but I know it's nopt for everyone!)

Candy Canes

Right Curve

DC into the 3^rd ch from the hook and into the next 11 sts. 3DC into the next st. Work 2TR into each of the next 6 sts. Place a DC into the final st. Ch2 and sl st into the final chain.

Fasten off white.

Left Curve

DC into the 3^rd chain from the hook. Work 2TR into each of the next 6 sts. 3DC into the next st. DC into the remaining 12 sts. Ch2 and sl st to the final chain.

Fasten off white.

Adding stripes

Thread Crimson yarn through a tapestry needle. Starting at the bottom, insert needle from the back and insert through a stitch diagonally on the opposite side.

To try and keep the stripes evenly spaced, work the red yarn through every other stitch on the inside of the candy cane and the 2^nd or 3^rd st of the outside.

Congratulations, you have completed your Candy Cane Lane Sweater and are ready to dazzle this festive season!

I really hope that you enjoyed making this free pattern. I'd love to see your work so please do tag me in your posts on social media @Brambles.and.Hart and use the hashtags #BHFreePatternMakes #BramblesandHart

If you are not already following me on social media then what are you doing?! I'd love to see you over on Instagram @Brambles.and.Hart, you can also follow me on TikTok (although I'm not particularly active there currently) and do subscribe to my YouTube Channel which will see a little revival in the new year!

Happy crocheting!

Shelley ♡