Search Results

After sharing posts on social media about my book blanket and the shades of brown granny square blanket that I made last year, I have received many comments and DMs from people asking for a tutorial for how I join my granny squares. I use is the Continuous Join As You Go (CJAYG) method, sometimes referred to just as the Join As You Go (JAYG) method. This involves joining individual motifs, such as granny squares, together seamlessly as you work. It's a great option because it reduces the need for weaving in a load of ends and for me that's always a win! Whilst this method may initally seem complicated it's a lot easier than it looks. If you can crochet a granny square then you can absolutely use this method. It's not just for blankets either! You can use this method for garments, bags, accessories, anything really where you want to joining granny squares together! What you need You will want to use whatever weight yarn and hook size that you used for your inital granny squares. For me that is DK weight yarn and a 4mm hook. The colour of the yarn you use is completely up to you, I like to use a neutral colour that provides a nice contrast to the squares I'm joining together. CJAYG Method First Two Squares You begin by working as though you are adding another round to your granny square. You want to work this round on the right side of your work. Join yarn in the top right corner of your first square. (Ch3, 2DC) into the corner space. 3DC into each space along until you reach the next corner. (3DC, Ch1, 3DC) into the corner. 3DC into each space along until you reach the next corner. (3DC, ch1) in the corner space. We will now join the next square 3DC into the bottom right corner of the next granny square. Sl st into the space between the bottom two clusters of the first square. 3DC into the next space along. Sl st into the next space along on the first square. Repeat steps 3 and 4 until you reach the corner space 3DC into the corner space, ch1 and sl st into the corner space of the first square Ch1 and 3DC back into the corner space to complete the corner. Continue around to the bottom left hand corner in the manner of a normal granny square. Finishing off the Row When you reach the end of the row, we will work along the bottom unworked side of the granny squares. 3DC into each space along At each corner, 3DC and ch1 then sl st over the ch1 between the corner clusters (see photo) Continue along until you reach the end Beginning the next row The method for the rest of your work will be very similar, you will soon feel in a good rhythm with it. First new square 3DC into the top right corner of the new granny square. Sl st into the space between the first two clusters of the above square. 3DC into the next space along. Sl st into the next space along on the above square. Repeat steps 3 and 4 until you reach the corner space 3DC into the corner space, ch1 and sl st into the corner space of the diagonally opposite* square (see photo) Complete your corner and work down that side until you reach the bottom left hand corner. Continuing to Add Squares When you are ready to join your next squares you will repeat the steps learned above - 3DC into each space of the new square, slip stitching between clusters of previous squares to join. At the corners, ch1 before and after you sl st to the diagonally opposite squares at the corners. See photo above for where to complete your joins when 4 corners meet. When you reach the end of the row, work along the bottom edge until you reach the corner where you can continue to add on new rows if you wish. And rinse and repeat! *I don't know if joining to the diagonally opposite square is the 'correct' way to join the squares but it's the way I do mine and what I think gives the neatest finish. Finishing Off Project When you have finished adding all of your squares together you should have one unworked side remaining. Work along this in the same way as you did finishing off each row. Fasten off and weave in your two ends! Yarn used in these photos: Stylecraft Colour Burst DK and Stylecraft Special DK. A note on my version of the method - I work the CJAYG method in the same way as I crochet my granny squares; ch 1 in each corner and no chains between clusters. If you work your granny squares differently such as a ch1 between clusters or ch2 in each corner then you will want to replicate this when joining your squares together. The CJAYG method is a really great technique to learn. I hope that this quick tutorial proves helpful. If you have any questions or want anything clarifying then do let me know! Be sure to follow me on Social Media to stay up to date with all of my latest crochet projects, free patterns and tutorials! Instagram @brambles.and.hart TikTok @brambles.and.hart YouTube Brambles and Hart Happy crocheting! Shelley ♡

I think it's safe to say that my attempt at a book blanket this year was a bit of a failure. I have a total of 30 squares made and joined together but I am just finishing up reading book number 80! Why do I think I failed? There are a number of reasons why I think I didn't keep up to date with the book blanket but the main reason is time management. I didn't block out any time to specifically focus of working on my blanket squares. With so many patterns I was working on, commissions, personal projects and family life I really should have set aside some dedicated time once a month or so. I also think trying to have different squares for physical and kindle books made it harder than it needed to be. I could never remember which square design was which so I was always having to check and that just got annoying. I know it's a small thing but it would stop me from just making the square each time. Lastly, is the fact that I read far more than I'd expected to! As this year is the first year that I've really gotten back into reading I initially set my reading goal to 35. When I passed that early on in the year I upped it to 75 thinking that that would be a real stretch but I reached that goal too! Best Books of the Year I have read some fantastic books this year and listened to some really good audiobooks too. Here are a few of my real stand out reads of the year: The Great Alone by Kristin Hannah The Women by Kristin Hannah The Nightingale by Kristin Hannah (Yes, she has become one of my most favourite authors of all time!) Project Hail Mary by Andy Weir Slewfoot by Brom The Seven Husbands of Evelyn Hugo by Taylor Jenkins Reid Godkiller by Hannah Kaner Have you read any of these? What did you think? I have a lot of books on my TBR waiting to be read and I am sure that 2025 will be another great reading year. Especially as Onyx Storm releases in January! Are you as excited about that as I am? What's Next? I could try to get all of the squares complete by the end of this year, if I do I will let you know but I think it's more likely that I will admit defeat for this year. I'm not going to let this failure to complete deter me from trying again next year though. I've learnt a lot from my attempt this year and I think I can definitely do it if I try again. I think I'll use a similar colour palette to this year as I really did like it but I think I'll stick to solid granny squares whatever the format of the book be it physical, kindle or audio. This will mean that I can just pick up my yarn and hook and make the square without much thinking other than: what colour relates to this star rating?. I'll also be using the Fable app to track my reads throughout the year. I highly recommend this app. I came across it a couple months ago and I absolutely love it. It shows you different statistics on your reading habits, you can join book clubs and my favourite feature - you can give partial star ratings! Sometimes you just need a half star! If you're considering a book blanket in 2025 then let me know! I'd love for us to work on them together. Don't forget to use #bookblanket2025 and I'll be able to see your progress. I actually can't believe that it's almost the new year, it's very exciting! Happy reading and crocheting! Shelley x

As the weather turns, the nights draw in and the sun rises later in the morning what is better than pulling on a chunky, cosy cardigan? Maybe the sweet satisfaction of knowing that you made the cardigan yourself! The Hazel cardigan is a great project for those new to making garments, if you can crochet a rectangle then I'm certain you can make this cardigan. So go raid your stash for your favourite chunky yarn and let's get going! If you would prefer to have a printable PDF copy of the pattern with photo support included you can get this from my website , Etsy or Ravelry . Before You Begin: You will need: Chunky/bulky/5 weight yarn (see below for note on choosing your yarn) 6.5mm and 7mm crochet hook or size required to meet gauge Tapestry needle Stitch markers Scissors Optional: buttons if you wish to add them Yardage: This is an approximate amount based on using Paintbox Simply Chunky (136m/146yds per 100g) 785m, 884m, 952m, 1020m, 1156m, 1252m, 1360m, 1496m, 1632m A note on yarn choice: not all 5 weight yarn is equal, there can be a big difference in the thickness of a yarn within this category. For example, Hue + Me is definitely on the heavier side whereas Stylecraft Life Chunky is on the much lighter side. For the Hazel cardigan I recommend using a yarn that is on the lighter side of chunky to ensure that the fabric of the cardigan has nice drape and doesn't feel to stiff. It is of course personal preference and you can choose to use whichever yarn you would like, just note that yardage can vary widely depending on the yarn used as will the overall finish of the cardigan. Yarns I recommend: Stylecraft Life Chunky, Paintbox Simply Chunky, Hayfield Bonus Chunky Tweed, Stylecraft Special Chunky. Stitch Abbreviations (US Terms) St/s - stitch/es Ch - chain Sl st - slip stitch SC - single crochet HDC - half double crochet BLO - working in the back loop only HDC 3rd loop - half double crochet in the third loop (see special stitches). Gauge: 10 sts by 9 rows = 10cm x 10cm/ 4" x 4" How to make a gauge swatch: Using a 7mm hook, ch 20. HDC in 2nd ch from hook and in each stitch across. Ch1 and turn.  HDC in each stitch across.  Repeat until you have a total of 14 rows.  Then measure the inside stitches/rows to check your gauge. You want to ensure you match the gauge for the stitches but if you find yourself out a little on the number of rows then you can counteract this by working more/less rows on each panel and sleeve. Measurements In CM To Fit Chest (circumference) Finished Chest (underarm to underarm) Length (shoulder to hem) Sleeve (underarm to wrist) X-Small 71-76 45 56 41.5 Small 81-86 50 56 42.5 Medium 91-97 55 58 42.5 Large 101-107 60 58 44.5 X Large 111-117 65 60 44.5 2X Large 122-127 70 60 44.5 3X Large 132-137 75 62 46 4X Large 142-147 80 62 48 5X Large 152-158 85 64 48 *Please note that sizes 4X and 5X were unfortunately not pattern tested due to a lack of applicants. If these are sizes you wear please do consider joining my tester group, I'd love to have you! Time adjustments can be made to tests where required. Special Stitches: HDC in the 3rd Loop For this stitch, you work a HDC as normal but rather than through the top of the stitch you go through the 3rd loop of the HDC from the previous row. The 3rd loop will be the bar along the front of the stitch as you are looking at it (see photo) To complete your HDC 3rd Loop, YO and insert your hook under the 3rd loop, pull up a loop so there are 3 loops on your hook. YO and pull through all 3 loops. Pattern Notes: The Hazel Cardigan  is made up of 5 pieces; two front panels, the back panel and two sleeves. The neckband ribbing is worked directly onto the cardigan once all seaming has been completed. The sleeves are worked independently and then sewn onto the main body, therefore if you would like to follow the sleeve pattern for a different size this is easy to do. Ch1 does not  count as a stitch. The stitch counts for each size will be given as follows:  ( XS, S , M , L , XL , 2X , 3X , 4X , 5X   sts ) If separate instructions are required for a specific size this will be made clear. Where only one stitch count is given this means that it is the same for every size. The RS of your panels will be those showing the ridge detail created by working into the 3rd loop. If you are making the ribbing of your cardigan in a different colour to the main body/sleeves you will need to work the ribbing and the HDC row along the length of the ribbing in one colour and then switch to your second colour on the HDC 3rd Loop row. The Pattern Back Panel: Using a 6.5mm crochet hook    (or hook 0.5-1 mm smaller than that needed to reach gauge) Row 1: Ch 12. Starting in the 2nd ch from hook, sc in each st across. Ch1 and turn. ( 11  sts). Row 2: SCBLO in each st across. Ch1 and turn. ( 11  sts). Row 3 onwards: Repeat row 2 until you have a total of 45 , 50 , 55 , 60 , 65 , 70 , 75 , 80 , 85  rows. Now turn your work clockwise so that you can work along the long edge of the ribbing. HDC into the side of each row of ribbing. Ch1 and turn ( 45 , 50 , 55 , 60 , 65 , 70 , 75 , 80 , 85  sts) Note: If your main body is going to be a different colour to your ribbing then switch colour now. Switch to a 7mm crochet hook.    (or hook needed to meet gauge) Row 1 (RS): HDC in the front 3rd Loop of each st across. Ch1 and turn. ( 45 , 50 , 55 , 60 , 65 , 70 , 75 , 80 , 85 ). Row 2 (WS): HDC in each st across. Ch1 and turn. ( 45 , 50 , 55 , 60 , 65 , 70 , 75 , 80 , 85  sts) Row 3 onwards: Repeat row 2 until you have a total of 40 , 40 , 42 , 42 , 44 , 44 , 46 , 46 , 48   rows. (This includes the rows worked in the 3rd loop)  Neck Shaping   Row 1 (RS): HDC in the first 16 , 18 , 20 , 22 , 24 , 26 , 28 , 30 , 32  sts. HDC2TOG across the next 2 sts. Ch1 and turn. ( 17 , 19 , 21 , 23 , 25 , 27 , 29 , 31 , 33  sts) Row 2: HDC2TOG across the first 2 sts. HDC in each st across. Ch1 and turn.  ( 16 , 18 , 20 , 22 , 24 , 26 , 28 , 30 , 32  sts) Row 3: HDC in the first 14 , 16 , 18 , 20 , 22 , 24 , 26 , 28 , 30  HDC. HDC2 TOG across the last 2 sts. ( 15 , 17 , 19 , 21 , 23 , 25 , 27 , 29 , 31  sts) Fasten off. Neck Shaping cont. With RS facing, count 18 , 20 , 22 , 24 , 26 , 28 , 30 , 32 , 34  sts from the left and attach your yarn. Ch1 ready to begin the first row. Row 1 (RS): HDC2TOG across the first 2 sts. HDC in the next 16 , 18 , 20 , 22 , 24 , 26 , 28 , 30 , 32  sts.  Ch1 and turn. ( 17 , 19 , 21 , 23 , 25 , 27 , 29 , 31 , 33  sts) Row 2: HDC across, HDC2TOG across the last 2 sts. Ch1 and turn. ( 16 , 18 , 20 , 22 , 24 , 26 , 28 , 30 , 32  sts) Row 3: HDC2TOG, HDC in each st across. ( 15 , 17 , 19 , 21 , 23 , 25 , 27 , 29 , 31  sts) Fasten off. Front Panels: Both panels begin the same. Using a 6.5mm  crochet hook or hook used for back panel ribbing. Row 1:Ch 12. Starting in the 2nd ch from hook, sc in each st across. Ch1 and turn. ( 11  sts). Row 2: SCBLO in each st across. Ch1 and turn. ( 11  sts). Row 3 onwards: Repeat row 2 until you have a total of 21 , 23 , 26 , 28 , 31 , 33 , 36 , 38 , 41  rows. Now turn your work clockwise so that you can work along the long edge of the ribbing. HDC into the side of each row of ribbing. Ch1 and turn ( 21 , 23 , 26 , 28 , 31 , 33 , 36 , 38 , 41  sts) Switch to a 7mm crochet hook  (or hook used for back panel) Row 1 (WS): HDC in the front 3rd Loop of each st across. Ch1 and turn. ( 21 , 23 , 26 , 28 , 31 , 33 , 36 , 38 , 41 ). Row 2 (RS): HDC in each st across. Ch1 and turn. ( 21 , 23 , 26 , 28 , 31 , 33 , 36 , 38 , 41  sts) Row 3 - 29: Repeat row 2. We will now begin decreasing on every even number row and this is where the panels are worked slightly differently so follow Panel 1 instructions for one side and Panel 2 instructions for the other to ensure that the decrease shaping is the opposite for each side of the cardigan. Panel 1 Row 30 (dec): HDC2TOG across first 2 sts. HDC in each st across. Ch1 and turn. ( 20 , 22 , 25 , 27 , 30 , 32 , 35 , 37 , 40  sts) Row 31: HDC in each st across. Ch1 and turn. ( 20 , 22 , 25 , 27 , 30 , 32 , 35 , 37 , 40  sts) Row 32 (dec): Repeat row 30 ( 19 , 21 , 24 , 26 , 29 , 31 , 34 , 36 , 39  sts) Row 33: Repeat row 31 ( 19 , 21 , 24 , 26 , 29 , 31 , 34 , 36 , 39  sts) Repeat rows 32 and 33 (dec row, non-decrease row) until you have a total of 15 , 17 , 19 , 21 , 23 , 25 , 27 , 29 , 31  sts and a total of 41 , 41 , 43 , 43 , 45 , 45 , 47 , 47 , 49  rows. Final 2 rows: HDC into each st across, ch1 and turn. ( 15 , 17 , 19 , 21 , 23 , 25 , 27 , 29 , 31   sts) Fasten off leaving a tail approximately 35cm for seaming. Panel 2 Row 30 (dec): HDC in each st across until 2 sts remain, HDC2TOG across last 2 sts. Ch1 and turn. ( 20 , 22 , 25 , 27 , 30 , 32 , 35 , 37 , 40  sts) Row 31: HDC in each st across. Ch1 and turn. ( 20 , 22 , 25 , 27 , 30 , 32 , 35 , 37 , 40  sts) Row 32 (dec): Repeat row 30 ( 19 , 21 , 24 , 26 , 29 , 31 , 34 , 36 , 39  sts) Row 33: Repeat row 31 ( 19 , 21 , 24 , 26 , 29 , 31 , 34 , 36 , 39  sts) Repeat rows 32 and 33 (dec row, non-decrease row) until you have a total of 15 , 17 , 19 , 21 , 23 , 25 , 27 , 29 , 31  sts and a total of 41 , 41 , 43 , 43 , 45 , 45 , 47 , 47 , 49  rows. Final 2 rows: HDC into each st across, ch1 and turn. ( 15 , 17 , 19 , 21 , 23 , 25 , 27 , 29 , 31  sts) Fasten off leaving a tail approximately 35cm for seaming. Sleeves: Make 2 the same Cuffs Using a 6.5mm hook.       If you feel your cuff is going to be tighter than you’d like use a 7mm hook. Row 1: Ch 10. Starting in the 2nd ch from hook, sc in each st across. Ch1 and turn. ( 9  sts). Row 2: SCBLO in each st across. Ch1 and turn. ( 9  sts). Row 3 onwards: Repeat row 2 until you have a total of 18 , 18 , 20 , 22 , 24 , 26 , 28 , 30 , 32  rows. Join the ribbing by working a sl st in the BLO of the last row sts and the underside of the starting chain. Turn your work so that you can work around the top edge of the cuff. HDC into the side of each row of ribbing (the same as when doing the ribbing for the panels). Sl st to join, ch1 and turn. ( 18 , 18 , 20 , 22 , 24 , 26 , 28 , 30 , 32  sts) You will now be working in joined rounds. Using a 7mm hook. Rnd 1 (WS): HDC into the front 3rd loop. Sl st to join, ch1 and turn. ( 18 , 18 , 20 , 22 , 24 , 26 , 28 , 30 , 32  sts)       Note:  Working into the front 3rd loop here is the same as for the panels but you are working on the inside of the sleeve, with the WS of the cuff facing you. See photo support. Round 2 (RS):  HDC into the first st, 2HDC into the next st. Repeat this around the cuff. Sl st to join, ch1 and turn.  ( 27 , 27 , 30 , 33 , 36 , 39 ,   42 , 45 , 48  sts) Rounds 3-7:  HDC into each st around. Sl st to join, ch 1 and turn. ( 27 , 27 , 30 , 33 , 36 , 39 , 42 , 45 , 48  sts) Round 8 (RS) INC: 2HDC into the first st, HDC around, 2HDC into the last st. Sl st to join, ch1 and turn.  ( 29 , 29 , 32 , 35 , 38 , 41 , 44 , 47 , 50  sts) Rounds 9-13: HDC into each st around. Sl st to join, ch1 and turn. ( 29 , 29 , 32 , 35 , 38 , 41 , 44 , 47 , 50  sts) Round 14 (RS) INC: 2HDC into the first st. HDC around, 2HDC into the last st. Sl st to join, ch1 and turn.  ( 31 , 31 , 34 , 37 , 40 , 43 , 46 , 49 , 52  sts)   Last INC round for size XS Rounds 15-19: HDC into each st around. Sl tst to join, ch1 and turn. ( 31 , 31 , 34 , 37 , 40 , 43 , 46 , 49 , 52  sts) XS Round 20: HDC into each st around. Sl st to join. ch1 and turn. ( 31  sts)          Continue working rounds of HDC until you have 32   rounds in total. Fasten off leaving a 50cm tail.   All other sizes Round 20 (RS) INC: 2HDC into the first st, HDC around, 2HDC into the last st. Sl st to join, ch1 and turn.  ( 33 , 36 , 39 , 42 , 45 , 48 , 51 , 54  sts) Rounds 21-25: HDC into each st around. Sl st to join, ch1 and turn. ( 33 , 36 , 39 , 42 , 45 , 48 , 51 , 54  sts) Round 26 (RS) INC: 2HDC into the first st, HDC around, 2HDC into the last st. Sl st to join, ch1 and turn. ( 35 , 38 , 41 , 44 , 47 , 50 , 53 , 56  sts)  Last INC round for S , M , L , XL Rounds 27 - 32: HDC in each st around. Sl st to join, ch1 and turn. ( 35 , 38 , 41 , 44 , 47 , 50 , 53 , 56  sts)           Sizes S , M , L   XL  work rounds of HDC until you have a total of 33 , 34 , 34 , 35  rounds. Fasten off leaving a 55cm tail. 2X , 3X , 4X , 5X   continue Round 33 (RS) INC): 2HDC into the first st, HDC around, 2HDC into the last st. Sl st to join, ch1 and turn. ( 49 , 52 , 55 , 58  sts)          (This is an optional increase round, you can replace with a standard HDC round if you wish) Round 34 onwards: HDC in each st around. Sl st to join, ch1 and turn. ( 49 , 52 , 55 , 58  sts)     Repeat until you have a total of 36 , 36 , 37 , 37  rounds.  All remaining sizes fasten off leaving a 65cm tail. Seaming: Notes before you begin: The Right Sides of your work will always be facing each other. If you haven’t already, it’s a good idea to mark the RS of both your panels with a stitch marker. I recommend whip stitching as the seaming method but please feel free to do whatever you are most confident with if you usually use a different method. Before you begin seaming your panels together, lay your back panel down flat and line up your sleeves so that you can mark where your arm holes need to begin (the end tail of each sleeve should be orientated to the underside centre so that it will be inline with the seam). Main Body Lay your back and one of your front panels side by side, WS facing you, with the shoulders lined up. Ensure that your rows are lined up as evenly as possible. Thread your tapestry needle with a long tail, approximately 100-120cm (rather too much than not enough) and work the needle through the very edge of both panels from right to left, tying a knot to secure.  You will then whip stitch your two panels together until just before the stitch marker denoting where your armhole will begin. Do not fasten off your yarn just yet incase you need to adjust your seam. Shoulders Using the long tails left from the neck shaping, whip stitch your along the length of your shoulders. Fasten off. Repeat for second front panel.  Sleeves With the WS of your cardigan facing you, insert your first sleeve through the armhole and line up the sleeve to the armhole. It should fit neatly without the need to stretch out the sleeve or the armhole too much. If your side seam needs increasing or pulling back then adjust as needed. Using the long tail left on sleeve, whip stitch around the armhole and the opening of your sleeve. You want to ensure that you work through each stitch of the sleeve. Fasten off and repeat for the second sleeve. Turn your cardigan the right way out and double check that you are happy with how everything is seamed before weaving in all of your ends. Ribbing: With your cardigan facing you, attach your yarn to the bottom left corner of  the left-side front panel.  Using a 6.5mm hook , ch10.  Row 1: SC into the 2nd chain from the hook and into each at along. Sl st into the next 2 sts along. Ch1 and turn. ( 9  sts) Row 2: SCBLO into each st along. Ch1 and turn. ( 9  sts). Row 3: SCBLO into each st along. Sl st into the next 2 sts along. Ch1 and turn. ( 9  sts) Row 4: SCBLO into each st along. Ch1 and turn. ( 9  sts) Repeat rows 3 and 4 around the front opening of your cardigan until you reach the bottom right-hand corner. Fasten off and weave in your ends. When working into the main body of the panels you will want to work approximately 2 rows of SCBLO ribbing per 3 HDC rows of the panel. A note on buttonholes: If you would like to add to add buttonholes to your Hazel cardigan, I suggest using stitch markers to note roughly where you would like your buttonholes to be along the front of your cardigan. I usually use 4-6 buttons for my cardigans depending on the size of the button. You will work your ribbing as normal until you reach the first stitch marker. I recommend working the buttonhole on a WS row, when you are working away from the cardigan.    Buttonhole row: SCBLO in the first 4 sts, ch2 and skip a st, SCBLO in the final 4 sts. Ch1 and turn. ( 9  sts)    Next row: SCBLO in first 4 sts, SC into the ch2 space, SCBLO in last 4 sts. Sl st into the next 2 sts along. Ch1 and turn. ( 9  sts) I would always check that my button fit through the hole. If it doesn’t you may need to skip an extra stitch to create a larger buttonhole. Aim to have the same number of standard ribbing rows between each buttonhole. Generally, I have mine spaced about 8 rows apart. Congratulations your Hazel Cardigan is now complete! I really hope that you enjoyed making this free pattern, my first free garment pattern no less! I'd love to see your work so please do tag me in your posts on social media @Brambles.and.Hart and use the hashtags #BHHazelCardigan #BHFreePatternMakes #BramblesandHart If you would like to join my pattern tester list so that you can be the first to know about upcoming pattern tests you can do that here . Be sure to check out my other patterns also, all free patterns can be found on the website and I have paid patterns on my website, Etsy and Ravelry. I'm also over on YouTube now so please do subscribe!

Since getting back into reading and fell in love with my Kindle again it's probably no surprise that I've also started eyeing up all of the pretty accessories that you can purchase now for them. I'm talking cases, stickers, pop socket, stands, automatic page turners and of course cosy covers. What nicer thing can you do for your Kindle than give it a beautiful cosy case to keep it well protected when you're out and about. Make it cute and crochet and you really are ticking all of my boxes! This free pattern is for the sweet Daisy Delight Kindle Sleeve. New Updates added! Is it only for Kindles? Absolutely not! The beauty of this pattern is that you can easily adjust the sizing so you can make it for any brand e-reader, your iPad or tablet or even an extra large one as a laptop sleeve. I'll provide hints and tips for how to alter the sizing throughout the pattern. My Kindle is quite an old model now and not quite as large as some of the newer ones so it is most likely that you would need a different stitch count to me anyway. That being said, the ease of altering the size of the cover also makes this pattern very adaptable in terms of what yarn you choose to use, For mine shown here I have used an aran/worsted/ 4 weight 100% acrylic yarn but you could chose to use a thinner or thicker weight yarn and perhaps try cotton for extra durability. The Pattern You will need: Your choice of yarn, I used Yarnsmiths Create Aran in Light Sage, White and Antique Gold. 4.5mm hook for sleeve 4mm hook for Daisies Tapestry needle Scissors Button Optional: Glue Gun, scrap paper. Good idea to have your Kindle/tablet/laptop to hand too. If you are using a different weight yarn then I recommend using a hook that is 0.5-1mm smaller than that suggested. If your tension is generally quite tight anyway then you may wish to stick with the original size. Stitch Abbreviations (US Terms) St/s - stitch/es Ch - chain Sl st - slip stitch SC - single crochet HDC - half double crochet BLO - Back Loop Only Kindle Sleeve Using your main colour in my case Light Sage and a 4.5mm hook, ch as many sts as required to cover the width of you Kindle. Note: If you want a snug fit then ch to just cover the width of yout device, if you'd like a looser fit then have a couple chs either side. I chained 20 and I will refer to my st counts throughout but you can simply replace these with your own. Rnd 1: In the 2nd ch from the hook HDC, HDC in each ch along until one remains. Into the final ch work 3 HDC and turn your work so that you are now working along the bottom side of the ch. HDC into each ch along, working 2 HDC into the last ch. Sl st to join, Ch1 and do not turn. (40 sts) Note : Here's how to work out what your stitch count should be (Starting ch - 1) x 2 + 2 = Stitch Count My example - (20 - 1) x 2 = 38 + 2 = 40 sts Update: I got a new kindle Paperwhite and have made a new sleeve for it which uses. astarting chain of 22 and an overall stitch count of 44 sts. Rnd 2 (RS): HDCBLO into each st around. Sl st to join. Ch 1 and turn. (40 sts) Rnd 3 (WS): HDC in each st around. Sl st to join. Ch 1 and turn (40 sts) Rnd 4 onwards: Repeat rnd 3 until you are almost at the top of your device. Ensure that you end after completing a right side facing row. (I worked a total of 20 rounds) Fasten off main colour and attach contrast colour. For me this was White. Update: For my Kindle Paperwhite I work. a total of 22 rounds. All of the contrast colour rounds will be worked with the RS facing. Rnd 1 (RS) HDC in each st around. SL st to join. Ch1 and do not turn. (40 sts) Rnd 2 (RS): HDC in st around. SL st to join. Ch1 and do not turn. (40 sts) Before the final round where we will create the button loop we need to work out where the centre is on the front of our work. To do this take your total st count and divide by 4. For me this is 40 divded by 4 = 10 This is how many sts you will work before completing your button loop. Rnd 3 (RS): Sc into the first 10 sts, ch 11, sct into the next st to join loop. Continue to sc in each st around. Sl st to join. Fasten off contrast colour and weave in all ends. New! Alternative Button Band If you would like to use the button band seen in the photo with the purple sleeve instead of the simple chain loop then follow these instructions for Rnd 3. Take the total number of your stitches and divide by 2 e.g. 40 sts /2 = 20 This shows that we have 20 sts at the front and 20 sts at the back. We will be working the button loop across 3 sts so we need to find the central 3 sts at the back of the sleeve. e.g. Back = 20 sts 20 - 3 = 17 As this is an odd number I would divide 16 by 2 to give me 8 sts either side of the band and add in the extra stitch to the beginning of the round before the button loop. I find this gives me the most central placement but you could opt to add the extra st in after the band is complete. Rnd 3: SC into the first 9 sts (8 plus the extra 1). HDC into the next 3 sts, ch1 and turn. We will now work across those 3 sts only. HDC in each st, ch 1 and turn. HDC, ch1 and skip a st, HDC in last st, ch 1 and turn. (button hole created) HDC into first st, into the ch sp and into the last st. HDC2TOG across the first 2 sts, HDC into last st. Sl st down the side of the band until you reach the bottom and ca rejoin the final round of the sleeve. SC into the next st and into each st around. Fasten off and weave in your ends. The Daisy For my Kindle sleeve I made 2 small and 2 large daisies. You may wish to make a different amount to give the finish you desire on your cover. Small Daisy Using Antique Gold and a 4mm hook Centre: Into a MR work 8 SC. Sl st to join. (8 sts) Fasten off and attach White. Petals: Ch 4, HDC into 2nd ch from hook and next ch along. SC into final ch. Sl st into next st along the centre to join petal. Repeat this around until you have created all 8 petals. Fasten off and weave in your ends. Large Daisy Using Antique Gold and a 4mm hook Centre: Into a MR work 10 SC. Sl st to join. (10 sts) Fasten off and attach White. Petals: Ch 4, HDC into 2nd ch from hook and next ch along. SC into final ch. Sl st into next st along the centre to join petal. Repeat this around until you have created all 10 petals. Fasten off and weave in your ends. Attaching Daisies I personally prefer to use a glue gun because it's quicker, easier and makes my inner crafter's heart smile but if you don't like them or don't have access to one then you can sew the daisies onto your sleeve. A good tip here, especially if you are using a glue gun, is to arrange the daisies onto your sleeve how you would like them and then take a quick photo on your phone that you can refer to as you attach them one by one. I would also recommend placing a piece of scrap paper into your Kindle sleeve whilst you glue them on just to prevent and glue transfer to the other side of the fabric which could result in it getting stuck. Your final touch is to sew on your button and then your Daisy Kindle Sleeve is complete! I really hope that you enjoyed making this free pattern. I'd love to see your work so please do tag me in your posts on social media @Brambles.and.Hart and use the hashtags #DaisyDelightKindleSleeve #BHFreePatternMakes #BramblesandHart

The '-ber' months are here and with that comes Pumpkin Season. I for one want cute little pumpkins adorning everything! I've got some plush pumpkins on my mantel piece, a pumpkin garland above my desk and now I have a pumpkin cup cosy for my favourite seasonal beverages! I don't know if it's just my local Starbucks (other coffee shops are available) that don't always give out the cardboard sleeves anymore but I know that if I don't have one my coffee ends up burning my hand. To solve this problem I have designed the super cute Pumpkin Cup Cosy and I now keep one in my bag and one in the car so that I always have one to hand. Using this pattern you can now make one too! I am also pleased (and extremely nervous) to say that you can now get a full tutorial for this pattern on my YouTube channel! Click here to view! ♡ Yes, your girl has started a YouTube channel! I so often get asked for videos for certain patterns or parts of patterns so I thought it was about time and this seemed like a nice simple pattern to begin with as I have never filmed a full length tutorial before. Please do go and like and subscribe to my YouTube channel if you would like to see more free pattern tutorials in the future! The Pattern You will need: Chunky/Bulky/5 weight yarn in your main colour. I used Stylecraft Life Chunky in Natural Neep* Scrap yarn in pumpkin shade - I used a super chunky yarn but chunky or aran would also work. Scrap yarn for stalk - I used aran weight yarn 5mm hook for sleeve 6.5mm and 4mm hook for pumpkin applique Large eye tapestry needle Measuring tape Scissors Stitch Abbreviations (US Terms) St/s - stitch/es Ch - chain Sl st - slip stitch MR - magic ring SC - single crochet HDC - half double crochet DC - half double crochet Crab stitch - reverse single crochet. Sleeve/Cosy: Using main colour and 5mm hook Ch 30 Row 1: HDC into the 2nd ch from the hook and in each ch along. (29 sts) We will now sl st to join to the first HDC of the row to join so that we can begin to work in the round. Ensure that your work is not twisted. Ch1, do not turn. Rnd 2: HDC into each st around. Sl st to join and ch 1. (29 sts) Here you will want to measure the width of your cup cosy and it should be approximately 4.25' or 11cm wide. Rnd 3-7: Repeat round 2. Rnd 8 - Crab stitch border. To create the crab stitch (reverse single crochet) border you work around the cosy anticlockwise, the opposite way to that which you would normally crochet. SC into each st and each chain space around, sl st to the first st to join. Fasten off your yarn and weave in your ends. Use the end from the start of your work to close the gap at the bottom of your cup cosy from where we joined the initial row. Note - if you have a very visible seam (usually on darker colours) that you find unappealing then when working your rounds, skip the first st at the base of the ch1 and work your final st into the sl st from the previous round. Pumpkin Applique: Using your pumpkin shade Hook size depends on weight of yarn. My recommendations would be: super chunky/chunk - 6.5mm, aran - 5mm Rnd 1: Working into your MR, SC, 7DC, SC. Fasten off and weave in your ends. Stalk/stem: Using aran yarn and a 4mm hook Attach your chosen colour to the pumpkin by pulling up a loop through the MR and ch4. Sc into the 2nd ch from your hook and into the next 2 chs. Sl st through the MR to join. Fasten off, leaving a tail long enough for attaching the stalk. Weave in your other end. Attaching Applique You can either sew your applique on or use a glue gun, the choice is yours. To sew your pumpkin onto the sleeve, take a long strand of your pumpkin colour yarn and use that to sew through each stitch of your pumpkin onto the sleeve. Then using your tail from the stalk, sew around the stalk to secure in place. Weave in all of your ends and your Pumpkin Cup Cosy is finished and ready to adorn your next seasonal beverage! What is your go to order for this time of year? Are you a PSL lover or do you prefer a Chai Tea Latte like me? I really hope that you enjoyed making this free pattern. I'd love to see your work so please do tag me in your posts on social media @Brambles.and.Hart and use the hashtags #BHPumpkinCupCosy #BHFreePatternMakes #BramblesandHart

I love to have a garland hanging on my mantelpiece and I tend to change it with the seasons. Last year I made a pumpkin garland and I have put that up again this year as we moved into Autumn but I decided that for spooky season I wanted something a little different. Enter the Ghosts & Gravestones Garland! Combining my favourite little pumpkins with some plush ghost and gravestones you get a cute and spooky garland that is the perfect decoration in the run up to Halloween. The Pattern You will need: Here I will list the yarn and hook sizes that I used but you can absolutely use whatever you have to hand. This is intended to be a stashbuster friendly project! Just be aware that if you use a different weight yarn to me then your garland may vary in size. Ghosts & Gravestones : Yarnsmiths Create Aran in white and Light Grey Heather Small amount of black for ghost eyes and RIP lettering 4mm hook Pumpkin Body: Stylecraft Super Chunky XL Tweed in Gingerbread 7mm hook Pumpkin Stalk: Stylecraft Special Aran in Khaki 4mm hook Garland Chain 4mm hook Optional: Saftey eyes for the ghosties instead of crocheting them Tapestry needle Large eye tapestry needle for super chunky yarn Measuring tape Scissors Stitch Abbreviations (US Terms) St/s - stitch/es Ch - chain Sl st - slip stitch MR - magic ring SC - single crochet HDC - half double crochet DC - double crochet For the ghosts and gravestones, you will make two of the main bodies, add the detailing to one and then sew them together. This is mainly to keep all of the yarn ends from the detailing hidden on the inside. If this won't bother you then you could just make them with a single layer. Ghost: Make 2 per ghost - I had a total of 3 ghosts on my garland so I made 6 bodies. Using White and 4mm hook Ch 7 Row 1: HDC in the 2nd ch from the hook, HDC in first 4 sts, 5 HDC in the last st. Now working along the underside of the ch, HDC in last 5 sts. Ch1 and turn. (15 sts) Row 2: HDC in first 6 sts, work 2HDC in the next 3sts and then HDC in the final 6 sts. Ch1 and turn. (18 sts) Row 3: Work 3HDC into the first st. HDC in next 6 sts along. 2HDC into each of the next 4sts. HDC into next 6 sts and work 5 HDC into the final st. We will now work along the bottom of the ghost. Sl st to bottom edge then work 5DC into the centre (this will likely look like a little hole so it's easy to spot), sl st to edge again. Work 2 HDC into same space as first sts from this row.. Sl st to first HDC to join. (35 sts) Fasten off. Note: If you are going to be making two ghost bodies and sewing them together then on one leave a long tail for sewing. If not you can weave in the ends. Eyes (Make 2): Using black yarn and a 4mm hook Make magic ring (MR). Into the MR work 2 SC, sl st to join. Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing. To attach your eyes to the ghost you will sew them onto the main body, or you could use a glue gun but I actually did sew mine on. An alternative is to use safety eyes though with this option I would definitely recommend doing the double layer option for additional safety. Gravestone: Note: This is very similar to the Ghosts, it's just row 3 that's different. Using Light Grey Heather and a 4mm hook. Ch 7 Row 1: HDC in the 2nd ch from the hook, HDC in first 4 sts, 5 HDC in the last st. Now working along the underside of the ch, HDC in last 5 sts. Ch1 and turn. (15 sts) Row 2: HDC in first 6 sts, work 2HDC in the next 3sts and then HDC in the final 6 sts. Ch1 and turn. (18 sts) Row 3: HDC in first 7 sts along. 2HDC into each of the next 4sts. HDC into last 7 sts. Now work 7 SC along the bottom edge of the work to give a neat finish. (25 HDC, 7 SC) Fasten off. Note: If you are going to be making two gravestones and sewing them together then on one leave a long tail for sewing. If not you can weave in the ends. Using a tapestry needle and small amount of black yarn, stitch on your RIP letters and then use khaki yarn to add on some grassy detailing. When adding the RIP lettering to the gravestone you can first write out the letter using a disappearing ink pen if you'd like to. Double layering To attach your front and back layer of the ghosts/gravestones, place your two pieces with the RS of each on facing outwards. Then use the long tail from of piece and whip stitch around, work through the stitch on the front piece and the corresponding stitch on the back. Fasten off and weave in your ends. Pumpkin Applique: Using Gingerbread (or your chosen pumpkin shade) and a 7mm hook Make a MR Into your MR work a SC, 8DC and a final SC. (9 sts) Fasten off and weave in your ends. Stalk: Using khaki and a 4mm hook Attach your stalk colour to the pumpkin by pulling up a loop through the MR and ch4. Sc into the 2nd ch from your hook and into the next 2 chs. Sl st through the MR to join. (3 sts) Fasten off, leaving a tail long enough for attaching the stalk. Weave in your other end. Joining Garland I will provide the instructions for how I join my garland, you can adjust as necessary. You can make your garland as long as you like, using as many ghosts, gravestones and pumpkins as you like in whichever combination you like - that's part of the fun! For my garland, I used 3 Ghosts, 3 Gravestone and 7 pumpkins and placed a pumpkin in between each ghost/gravestone. This is what fits nicely along my mantlepiece. It creates a garland approximately 115cm long. Using one of your aran weight yarns and a 4mm hook. To begin - ch 15 To attach a pumpkin, work a SC into the top of the stem. Ch 17 between motifs. To attach a Ghostie or Gravestone, insert hook through a stitch at the top and pull up a loop, repeat through the next two sts so there are.4 loops on the hook, YO and pull through all loops. When you are ready to finish your garland, ch 15 to match the start and the fasten off. Your garland is now ready to adorn your home/office/wherever with spooky vibes! I really hope that you enjoyed making this free pattern. I'd love to see your work so please do tag me in your posts on social media @Brambles.and.Hart and use the hashtags #GhostiesandGravestones #BHSpookyGarland #BHFreePatternMakes #BramblesandHart

With granny square appreciation day having just past I thought it the perfect time to share this fun project that is ideal for using up some scrap yarn. (In all honesty, the post was supposed to be released last week in time for Granny Square Day I'm just behind schedule - I blame the school holidays!) I needed a new coaster for my desk so that I could stop leaving coffee rings everywhere. Of course, I decided to make some! I chose to use cotton yarn because it works better with hot items, there's no risk of any sort of melting like you could potentially have with acrylic yarn. Also I really don't like the feel of acrylic yarn when it gets wets so just best avoided for this project. The Pattern You will need: 5 colours of Hobbii Friends Cotton 8/4 or other comparable yarns (This is a 4ply yarn) You could use all the same colour if you wanted to. All strands are held together throughout this pattern. 6mm clover crochet hook Large eye tapestry needle Scissors If you use a thicker yarn e.g. Paintbox Cotton Aran then I would use 3 strands of yarn rather than 3. Stitch Abbreviations (US Terms) St/s - stitch/es Ch - chain Sl st - slip stitch DC - half double crochet Crab stitch - reverse single crochet. Granny Square Using all 5 strands of yarn together, create a magic circle. Rnd 1: Into the magic circle, ch2, 2 DC, ch1. *3DC,ch1* repeat from *to* 2 more times. Sl st to top of ch2 to join. Ch2 and turn. Rnd 2: Work 2 DC into the chain space at the base of the ch2. (3DC, ch1, 3DC) into the next 3 chain spaces. 3DC into the first chain space, ch1. Sl st to top of ch2 to join. Ch2 and turn. Rnd 3: Work 2 DC into the chain space at the base of the ch2. *3DC into the next chain space. (3DC, ch1, 3DC) into the corner* Repeat from *to* two more times. 3DC into chain space. 3DC into the first corner, ch1. Sl st to top of ch2 to join. Ch1 and do not turn . Rnd 4 - Crab stitch border. To create the crab stitch (reverse single crochet) border you work around the square anticlockwise, the opposite way to that which you would normally crochet. SC into each st and each chain space around, sl st to the first st to join. Fasten off your yarn and weave in your ends. The Chunky Granny Square Coasters are the perfect accessory for your desk or coffee table - I love a pretty and practical project! I think these would look great in all sorts of colourways but I also think a singular colour could be really striking. You can pick your favourite colour/s to suit your own personal style. I could see these being ideal as quick makes for markets, create a set of four, tie together with some twine and add a cute label with your branding on and your ready to go! I have created a super simple label template on Canva that you can access here, change the colours and fonts to best suit you the simply print and attach! I really hope that you enjoyed making this free pattern. I'd love to see your work so please do tag me in your posts on social media @Brambles.and.Hart and use the hashtags #ChunkyGrannyCoasters #BHFreePatternMakes #BramblesandHart

(This post may contain affilate links) April was a fantastic reading month for me, I read a total of 14 books with just 1 DNF and they were really really good books! Now in the interest of full disclosure, I managed to 'read' so much because 2 were audiobooks and a couple were very short books. I also have zero social life so when I'm not working, looking after my boys or doing household stuff then I'm likely to be found reading nowadays. Books Read: Never Lie by Freida McFadden - 4 stars No Exit by Taylor Adams - 4.75 stars (Kindle) The Running Grave by Robert Galbraith - 5 stars (Audiobook) Powerless (Chestnut Springs 3) by Elsie Silver - 4.5 stars (Physical & Kindle) Ask for Andrea by Noelle W Ihli - 1 star (Kindle) The Housemaid by Freida Mcfadden - 4.5 stars Reckless (Chestnut Springs 4) by Elsie Silver - 5 stars (Physical & Kindle) The Goddess Path by Kirsty Gallagher - 3.5 stars (Non-Fiction) The Risk (Mindf--k 1) by S.T Abby - 3 stars (Kindle) The Housemaid's Secret by Freida McFadden - 4 stars The Groomer by Jon Athan - DNF (Kindle) Mr Mercedes by Stephen King - 4.5 stars (Audiobook) Hopeless (Chestnut Springs 5) by Elsie Silver - 4.5 stars (Physical & Kindle) Woom by Duncan Ralston - 4 stars (Kindle) - Please c heck your trigger warnings for this one before diving in. I gave it 4 stars because it was well written but I would be reluctant to recommend it. It's a graphic, extreme horror and will not be for everyone! As I said - it was a very good month! I finished up the Chestnut Springs series by Elsie Silver and I cannot recommend it enough. It's so wholesome and gives me that warm fuzzy feeling that you want from a contemporary rom-com and the spice is spot on for me. It sizzles without being the main focus of the book and only adds to the storyline. I am definitely going to be reading more of Elsie Silver's books, I believe that a few of her other books are set in the same Universe which is quite exciting. I have continued to read a lot on my Kindle because it's so convenient and I am definitely getting my money's worth with my Kindle Unlimited. All of the books read on my Kindle this month have been available on KU. If you would like to try a 30 day free trial then you can do so here! I also listened to a couple audiobooks this months and they were fantastic. Mr Mercedes was actually a re-listen for me it's one of my favourites. I go through phases of listening to audiobooks all the time and then not listening to one for months. I think it's because I'm quite picky when it comes to narrators. Some narrators just make me cringe as I'm listening and the thought of listening to them for 10hours is painful but others are incredible. Such as Robert Glennister who narrates the Strike novels, I could listen to him all day! Do you listen to audiobooks? If so let me know some of your favourites! If you'd like to give Audible a try then you can do so here Favourite Read: My favourite read from this month's selection was Reckless (Chestnut Springs 4) by Elsie Silver. I didn't think that I'd take to Winter or enjoy a book that was focused soley on her and Theo but I was so very wrong. I laughed, I cried, I felt a whole range of emotions throughout this book and I could not put it down. I read it in less than 2 days. Elsie Silver's writing style flows so effortlessly and as I read further into each book I felt such a connection to the characters and as though I knew each and every one of them as personal friends. That's such a special feeling when reading a book series. This was my favourite of the series although they are all fantastic. The Squares So it's coming up to the end of May as I write this and no, I have not yet made all of the squares for April. I blame that on spending so much time reading! I will get them all done soon enough I'm sure. What I have done is joined all of the squares from previous months. I'm using the CJAYG method as I personally find this to be the quickest and easiest method for joining granny squares. Plus it's easy on the ends which is great as I haven't sewn in a single end on a square yet! With this months additions I will have a grand total of 35 squares! The blanket is shaping up beautifully so far and this is becoming one of my most favourite projects of all time! I wasn't sure I'd actually keep it up but it's actually a really fun way to look back at what I've read, the good and the bad. I'll see you back here next month for May's book blanket update when I hopefully will have completed both April and May's squares but we shall see! Remember, if you're doing a Book Blanket too then use the hashtags #BookBlanket2024 and #BramblesandHartReads so that I can follow along. Shelley x

It's another reading related free pattern this time! I tend to have both a kindle book and a physical book on the go at any one time and after crocheting myself a cute Daisy Delight Kindle Sleeve I wanted to make myself something to use with my physical read. I seem to be having a bit of a 'flower moment' so of course I chose to make a flower bookmark! These work up super quickly and the colour combinations are endless. Whilst I went for daisies you could choose any colour for your flowers and of course the stem' doesn't have to be green. This is a great way to use up some little scraps of yarn that you have left from other projects. The Pattern You will need: Your choice of yarn, I used Hobbii Rainbow Cotton which is a 4 weight yarn Choose 3 colours: one for the stem, the eye of the flower and the petals. 4mm clover crochet hook Tapestry needle Scissors You can use any yarn that you like, I chose cotton because it's hardwearing and sturdy which gives a nice, long-lasting feel to the bookmark. Stitch Abbreviations (US Terms) St/s - stitch/es Ch - chain Sl st - slip stitch SC - single crochet HDC - half double crochet Stem Leaving a long starting tail, ch5. Rnd 1: Sl st into the 2nd ch from your hook, SC into the next 2 sts, 5HDC into the last st. Now working along the bottom of the row, back up the ch, SC into the next 2 sts, sl st into the last st. Sl st into the turning ch to join. Tightly chain 45. Fasten off leaving a long tail. Note: If you intend to use this bookmark for larger hardbacks you will need to work more chains for the stem. It's a good idea to test the length of your chain against the type of books you intend to use. You want the leaf to be visible from the bottom of your book and approximately 1 inch of ch remaining at the top. Using the long starting tail, stitch the leaf to the chain to secure, weave in the end and fasten off. The Daisy Using Blue Centre: Into a MR work 8HDC. Sl st to join. (8 sts) Fasten off and attach White. Petals: Ch 4, HDC into 2nd ch from hook and next ch along. SC into final ch. Sl st into next st along the centre to join petal. Repeat this around until you have created all 8 petals. Fasten off and weave in your ends. Attaching Daisies Using the end tail, sew your stem to the back of the daisy. Work through the back of the stitches at the centre of the daisy and also through the last few chains of the stem. Once you are happy that it is attached securely, weave in your end. `azqs12 Your Daisy Delight Bookmark is now ready to adorn your current read! I really hope that you enjoyed making this free pattern. I'd love to see your work so please do tag me in your posts on social media @Brambles.and.Hart and use the hashtags #DaisyDelightBookmark #BHFreePatternMakes #BramblesandHart

This month's blanket update is going to be short and sweet as I only read 4 books this month! After I'd finished my first book of the month - A Man Called Ove - I think I was in a bit of a slump. I just couldn't get into any book no matter what I tried. I'd read a page or two and decide I wasn't in the mood for them. This went on for about a week and a half. I also had a really busy month work wise so I didn't have quite as much free time as I've had in previous months. That being said 4 books is still a great amount. really just reading one book a month should be applauded after all it's not a race! Books Read: My short little round up for March: A Man Called Ove by Fredrik Backman - 4 stars (Kindle) Flawless (Chestnut Springs 1) by Elsie Silver - 3.5 stars (Physical & Kindle) Infinite Receiving by Suzy Ashworth - 3 stars (Kindle) Heartless (Chestnut Springs 2) by Elsie Silver - 4 stars (Physical & Kindle) Again this month was very Kindle heavy and that's largely because the time I did spend reading was when getting baby to sleep either at nap time or bed time and so it's just more convenient. The two Elsie Sliver books, which I adore by the way, I have both as physical copies and on my Kindle via Kindle Unlimited. I took the plunge this month and signed up to KU as they were offering a 2 months free trial and so far I'm really enjoying it. There's definitely plenty to choose from! If you would like to try a 30 day free trial of Kindle Unlimited you can do so here https://www.amazon.co.uk/kindle-dbs/hz/signup?tag=bramblesandhart-21 [affiliate link] So for both Flawless and Heartless I would flit between the book and my Kindle and it definitely helped me to get through the books quicker. Especially Flawless as I did find that dipped a little towards the middle and it felt like there was not much going on. Thankfully it did pick up and I ended up really enjoying it. Favourite Read: My favourite read from this month's selection was Heartless (Chestnut Springs 2) by Elsie Silver. Cade is such a moody, scowling babe! I loved the development of his relationship with Willa who is the fiesty, fun firecracker I only wish I had the confidence to be! Also, I feel I'm definitely showing my age that the male character I find the most attractive is Harvey - the dad! Oh lordy! This is such a cute little series (I'm currently onto book 3). They're sweet, a little spicy and just easy going reads. Just what I needed to get out of my little slump. I definitely recommend them if small town vibe romances are something you enjoy. I believe there are currently 5 'Chestnut Springs' books and whilst they are a series with the same characters cropping up throughout, each book could be read as a standalone. The books each focus on a different relationship. Book 1 is Summer and Rhett, book 2 Cade and Willa and book 3 is Jasper and Sloane. All interlinked but all separate in their own way. They are all available on KU and the physical books are super cheap on Amazon and also in The Works which is where I picked up my copies in the 3 for £6 deal!. The Squares I am definitely going to begin joining the squares together as there are now 17 of them! That's 15 books read so far this year plus the 2 DNFs. I did lay them all out on the table to try and work out how wide the blanket should be and it's already starting to look like a really pretty blanket! I'm going for 8 squares wide under the assumption that if I keep reading as I am doing I could read 80 books this year! Clearly my favourite rating to give a book is 4 stars as the dark sage square crops up the most. I almost only have one 5 star read so far this year but I have a feeling that may change in April! I'm actually impressed with myself for keeping up with this project, I really wasn't sure that I would. I'm finding it quite motivating to sit and work up my granny squares at the end of each month and see just how much I have read. I used to be such an avid reader and then there was a period of about 6 years (so since having children) where I just didn't read at all. I'd see books and think 'oh I'd really like to read that' but I. never did. It feels so good to be back doing something that brings me so much joy. Reading is time that I take out for me, where I escape into my own little world for a while and it's truly magical. I'll see you back here next month for April's book blanket update! Remember, if you're doing a Book Blanket too then use the hashtags #BookBlanket2024 and #BramblesandHartReads so that I can follow along. Shelley x

My Oak Cardigan has proven to be very popular (thank you so much!) and I think it's largely because each cardigan made following the pattern can look completely different just by mixing up the colour combinations. I designed the cardigan with the intention of using 3 colours: the main colour for the main body, a contrasting colour for the sleeves and a second contrasting colour for the edging and cuffs. Of course you can use more colours if you wish and create a full colour blocked cardigan which also looks amazing but the pattern is written for 3. If you're anything like me then making colour combinations can be quite daunting. I personally dress in quite neutral colours with the vast majority of my wardrobe being black. I also dress my boys in a lot of neutral/earthy tones so colour mixing and matching does not come naturally to me by any stretch. In this post I am going to share with you some simple colour combinations that I think would work beautifully for the Oak Cardigan. My main rule of thumb is to pick a neutral for the main body and then add splashes of colour for the sleeves and the cuffs. I find this to be quite a reliable method. I also like to pick an overarching colour and then choose a few shades of that colour that would work well together. All of the yarns shown are either Paintbox Simply Aran or Stylecraft Special Aran and are available from Lovecrafts. (Affiliate links - I make a small comission on purchases made via these links at no extra cost to you) The first colourway is that which I used for the Oak Cardigan I made for my little boy. With Parchment as the main colour, Pine Green for the sleeves and Summer Sky for the edging and cuffs. It's such a lovely combination and it actually works with so many colours meaning that it has been worn with so many different outfits. If you know me then you'll know I have a soft spot for the Pine Green shade from Paintbox yarns but it can be hard to get ahold of, it always seems to be sold out! Along with Soft Fudge, another of my favourite shades. If you know of a yarn brand with similar shades then please do let me know! These colourways don't have a neutral shade for the main body but I think they would work beautifully together for really vibrant cardigans. The first colourway I have previously used, along with cream, for a blanket and it looked amazing. Mushroom is a sort of neutral so would work well for the main body with the other two shades as the contrast colours. I can absolutely see it as an Oak Cardigan for a little girl who loves all things pink. Another tip for deciding on colour combos is to look at photos, patterns and fabrics that you like and try to pick out some of the colours used in those. This is great if you have an outfit in mind that you'd like to match the cardigan with. I enjoy buying handmade clothing for my little boy and then matching his crochet pieces to them. I hope that these have helped to spark some inspiration for your own Oak Cardigan. Click the link below to download a template for designing your cardigan. I think it would be super fun to actually let your little one colour in the template to let you know what sort of colours they would like and then you an have fun browsing online or at your local yarn store to find the perfect yarn. If you have yet to get your copy of the Oak Cardigan Crochet Pattern you can do that here, use code OAKBLOG to save 10%. Don't forget to use the tags #BramblesandHart and #OakCardiagn so that I can see your versions and get some colour combo inspo for my future cardigans too!

I've been looking for a quick and easy keychain that I could make to have on my keys. Something that's easy to find in my bag, is pretty and practical and with this simple crochet keychain pattern I think I tick all of those boxes. I've seen some cute crochet i-cord patterns but I find it quite tedious to do so instead I tried this method. It's super simple once you get the hang of it and you can work up a keychain in around 15 minutes. That includes weaving in your ends! These could be great for last minute gifts, colour co-ordinating them to match the recipients favourite colours, they'd be great for markets or craft stalls as little low-ticket items or even to add in as freebies to online orders. The possibilities are really endless. The Pattern You will need: 4 weight/ worsted/aran cotton yarn in two colours 5.5mm crochet hook Lobster clasp keyring (I got mine on Amazon) Scissors Tapestry needle Note: You could use any weight yarn that you like with a hook size up from that recommended for the yarn. This pattern makes a keychain with a loop that is 13cm long. You will make your cord approximately double this length (26cm). You can make the cord as long as you like, an extra long length could give you a lovely handmade lanyard! Stitch Abbreviations Please note that this pattern is written using US terms. Sl st - slip stitch Ch - chain St - stitch/es YO - yarn over Set Up To begin with, you need to make a long tail with both strands of your yarn You will be crocheting with this as well as you working yarn. (When referring to the working yarn, I mean the end being fed from the yarn balls). I aim to have my tail around 3x the length of the cord I intend to make plus a little bit extra. For a keychain/wristlet as I have made here I recommend leaving a tail that is approximately 45cm long. You will be using a both of your yarn colours at the same time throughout the pattern. If you have not worked with double strands before my advice would be to go slow to make sure you're catching both strands every time. Crocheting the Cord Create a slip knot and insert your hook. Ch1 to secure. Using the tail end of the yarn, YO from the front Using the working yarn, YO from the back (as normal) Pull through both loops on hook as if completing a sl st. Note: This can be a little fiddly to begin with, especially the first few stitches but you will pull the active yarn loop under the tail loop and the loop on your hook. Repeat this step until your cord measures approximately 26cm. If you are making a smaller or larger cord then repeat the step until it gives you the desired size loop when you bring both of the ends together. Attaching the Keyring Place the cord through the keyring and bring it up to the working end. YO from the front with the tail end and YO from the back with your working yarn and pull through to complete the stitch as you have been doing for the cord. This will secure the keyring in place. Fasten off your working yarn by chaining 1 and pulling the loop all the way through. Note: You need to have a tail that is long enough for wrapping around the keychain cord to secure it in place, if you do not have much of your tail end yarn left then when you fasten off your working yarn make that a long tail. Insert your hook through the bottom of your cord and pull through one of the tail ends to join your cord together and create the loop. Using the longest tail, wrap it around both thicknesses of the cord approximately 7 times, or until it looks how you would like it to. Using a tapestry needle, weave in the end through the wraparound section. I go down, up and down again to ensure its secure. Weave in the other ends also, hiding them within the wraparound section. Congratulations, your super simple keychain is complete! If you make your own keychain I would love to see it! Tag me in your photos @Brambles.and.Hart and use #BHSuperSimpleKeychain I really hope you have enjoyed this free pattern on the blog. If you would like to check out any of my premium paid patterns you can find those here.