Easy Granny Square (with colour changes) - Free Pattern

One of the most common questions I get asked is 'Do you have a granny square pattern?'

I've shared lots of content over the last year for projects that use granny squares such as my book blanket and granny square jumper (pattern in process!) and I always get asked how I do my granny squares, do I have a pattern or tutorial. I've previously sent people DMs with a quick outline of how I do my granny squares or referred the to YouTube where you can find a plethora of granny square tutorials but I have now decided that it's time I share my own.

Over the last 8 or so years that I've been crocheting, I've made many projects that use granny squares, followed patterns and tutorials and I've realised that so many people have a different approach.

Ask 5 crocheters how they make their granny squares and you'll likely get 5 slightly different responses! With that being said, this pattern/tutorial will be for how I personally like to make my granny squares. If you find that this doesn't feel right for you then there are many other tutorials available 🙂.

Now let's get to the pattern!

Before you begin:

You will need:

• Any yarn you choose in 4 different colours- for this tutorial I am using Yarnsmiths Create Aran in Christmas Green, Claret, Light Sage and White

• A hook the size recommended for your yarn - I am using a 5mm crochet hook

• Scissors

• Tapestry needle

Stitch Abbreviations

(US Terms)

MR - magic ring/magic circle

DC - double crochet

Sl st - slip stitch

Ch - chain

RS - right side

WS - wrong side

Pattern Notes:

• Ch2 at the start of the round does count as a stitch.

• You will be turning your work after every round.

• You will be changing colour every round (although this is totally optional!)

• I recommend joining your new colour in a different corner to where you fastened off your previous colour.

The Pattern:

With colour 1 make a magic circle.

Round 1 (RS):

Into the magic circle, ch2 (counts as a stitch here and throughout). Work 2 DC and ch1. Then work *3DC, ch1* repeating from *to* 2 more times. Sl st to top of ch2 to join.

Fasten off colour 1

Note: At the end of this round you will have 4 clusters of 3DC and 4 ch1 spaces. The ch1 spaces are your corner spaces.

Turn your work over and join colour 2 to the corner space opposite where you fastened off colour 1.

Round 2 (WS):

Ch2 and work 2 DC into the chain space at the base of the ch2. (This is the start of our first corner)

[3DC, ch1, 3DC] into each of the next 3 ch1 corner spaces.

3DC into the final corner space (where you worked your initial ch2, 2DC) and ch1. Sl st to top of ch2 to join. (This completes the first corner)

Fasten off colour 2.

Note: At the end of this round you will have 8 clusters of 3DC and 4 ch1 corner spaces..

Turn your work over and join colour 3 to one of the free corners (no previous colour change).

Round 3 (RS):

Ch2 and work 2 DC into the chain space at the base of the ch2. *3DC into the space between clusters from previous round and work [3DC, ch1, 3DC] into the corner space* Repeat from *to* 2 more times.

3DC into the space between the clusters from the previous round. 3DC into the final corner space and ch1. Sl st to top of ch2 to join.

Fasten off colour 3.

Note: At the end of this round you will have a total of 12 clusters and 4 ch1 corner spaces.

Turn your work over and join colour 4 to one of the free corners (no previous colour change).

Round 4 (RS):

Ch2 and work 2 DC into the chain space at the base of the ch2. *3DC into each of the spaces between clusters from the previous round. [3DC, ch1, 3DC] into the corner space* Repeat from *to* two more times.

3DC into each of the spaces between the clusters from the previous round. 3DC into the final corner space and ch1. Sl st to top of ch2 to join.

Fasten off colour 4.

Note: At the end of this round you will have a total of 16 clusters and 4 ch1 corner spaces.

Weave in all of your ends, if your project will have a 'right side' then try to weave in all of your ends on the same side of your work, the 'wrong side'.

Making a larger Granny Square.

If you want to make your granny squares larger, for example to keep going to make a traditional granny square blanket then absolutely you can do that!

Simply keep working in rounds the same as you have been here, turning your work after each round and alternating where you join your new colour.

With each round that you add you will have an extra space between clusters to work into. Your four corners will remain the same, work (3DC, ch1, 3DC) into each one.

Your total number of clusters will increase by 4 with each round. If you feel that you may have skipped a space or added in an extra cluster you can always count them, each side will have the same number of clusters as the number of rounds you have.

e.g. round 3 will have 3 clusters per side (see photo) and round 11 will have 11 clusters per side and so on.

Frequently Asked Questions

Q. Why do you turn after each round?

A. I personally choose to turn after each round because I find that it helps to keep my granny squares square and stop the spiralling effect that you can sometimes get when not turning. Turning after each round is helpful if your project will not have a set right or wrong side, for example with a blanket where both sides will be seen. It also creates a subtle texture to the granny square which I like.

Q: Why do you join the new colour to a different corner?

A. Where you join your yarn when adding a new colour will be where you both start and end your round so you will have a starting tail and an end that require weaving in. If you have all of these ends at the same corner of your granny square then it will add a bit of bulk. Attaching the yarn to different corners each time spreads out where the ends will be weaved in. Alternating corners also helps prevent a visible seam.

Q. Do I have to change colours every round?

A. Absolutely not! You can make you rgranny squares in a solid colour or perhaps you're using a variegated/colour changing yarn where you don't need to physically change the colour yourself. In that case, just keep on going with the yarn you have. If you are making a larger granny square blanket then I would maybe fasten off every 10 rounds or so just to prevent the visible seam.

If you are using more than one colour then play around with your colour changes, maybe you want thinker bands of colour so change colour every 5 rounds or have irregular colour changes. It's completely up to you, your personal style and the project you're working on.

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Granny squares are quite possibly the first thing that comes to mind for people when they think crochet and for good reason! They're a classic crochet pattern, they're versatile and can be used for everything from blankets to sweaters to bags and they look amazing in every possible colourway.

Whilst they can be intimidating for beginners and take a bit of practice, once you've cracked it they become the perfect, mindful make. I love to work on a simple granny square when I just want to shut off my brain for half an hour and unwind. I hope that this pattern helps you to make your first and your hundreth granny square!

I'd love to see your work so please do tag me in your posts on social media @Brambles.and.Hart and use the hashtags #BHFreePatternMakes #BramblesandHart

If you are not already following me on social media then what are you doing?! I'd love to see you over on Instagram @Brambles.and.Hart, you can also follow me on TikTok (although I'm not particularly active there currently) and do subscribe to my YouTube Channel which will see a little revival very soon!

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Happy crocheting!

Shelley ♡